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80prs going active


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So, I think you're confusing some things. When talking about the network mode, that's switching between using rears/fronts or mids/highs and their respective RCAs. When talking about the internal amp, that's the speaker-level outs active or not. Nowhere does it mention that both the RCAs and the speaker-level outs can or can't be active at the same time. Since you have the ability to turn the internal amp on or off, and the RCAs are active at all times, we have to assume that both will function. What would lead you to believe they wouldn't? In the end, it's not that hard to try it out and see for yourself.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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I cab tell you right now I have a p400-2 wired at 2ohms bridged with a 10" alpine type r. Some cheap diamond audio component set running off the front channel of the internal amp in the hu.

All on my 80prs in network mode didn't test the internal amp with my dd1 but testing at the sub amp with the dd1 40hz -5db I'm clean up to 61/62 at the deck. No issues yet and its been like this for roughly 1.5-2months.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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So, I think you're confusing some things. When talking about the network mode, that's switching between using rears/fronts or mids/highs and their respective RCAs. When talking about the internal amp, that's the speaker-level outs active or not. Nowhere does it mention that both the RCAs and the speaker-level outs can or can't be active at the same time. Since you have the ability to turn the internal amp on or off, and the RCAs are active at all times, we have to assume that both will function. What would lead you to believe they wouldn't? In the end, it's not that hard to try it out and see for yourself.

Well that is why I was asking. As you say it DOESN'T specify if they can be active at the same time or not. I was wondering if anyone knew for a fact if they where or where not. I agree with you though, the way the manual is written it does seem like you are supposed to assume that they are. The reason why I would question that they would or wouldn't, and the reason why I wouldn't just try it even if it isn't that hard, is because the price tag on a pair of Focal components is a lot of money to me. I have read some forum posts suggesting they may be active but not actually be controlled by the crossover settings anymore and only the RCAs are, I don't want to run 60hz to some tweeters and blow them up.

Alaskanzx5 This is very good information. When I oscoped my 80prs with a -5db tone on the sub out I came up with the exact same results. I found that if you calibrate with 0db at 57/62 you are clean at -5db at 61/62. By doing this you know at 57 100% safe, at 61, you are still pretty safe, and if you really need it you can go to 62, where you get a pretty huge 1 volt difference for whatever reason.

I have drank some beer at this point, I will revisit and revise tomorrow for any errors.

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At 0db with a 1khz track (with a t400.4 for my doors) I was clean to 62/62 with loudness on.

The 80prs is a good deck when I really get my stuff done ill only be playing up to 45-55/62 daily with a rear 55-61/62 and maybe a 62/62 for competing just because.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I haven't tried it with the loudness on but yeah, the deck is clean all the way up. I was just saying if you set yourself up at 0db/57 you can use 61 as a -5db setup because it happens to line up that way.

Well today is the day, I am going to go for it and hope this works. I need to get some screws/washers from the hardware store first to fix a few trim panels though. The factory ones are worn out and not holding everything together right anymore, especially with all that wiring stuffed in there. This should be pretty easy to do. I don't even have to take the door panel off. I should be able to just unscrew the speaker and fish everything through with my arm. Not my picture but look how close it is!!!

http://www.xj-project.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_3326.jpg

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So I just got done a few hours ago...

He just listed them in a different order, I had them right.

It would be easy I said, I remember making that post...WHAT A FUCKING MESS. The guy who did my sound deadening didn't use the peel and stick stuff he used that shit ton of glue and a roller stuff. In fact it looks like he used the peel and stick stuff with some glue stuff with it. My hands, arms, and pants are covered in the shit. Man what a pain in the ass that was to deal with. I got it done but damn. Why would anyone choose to use that stuff? No wonder it took him as long as it did. At least I got to inspect the job he did and he did a good job of coverage and all that judging by the guides I have read on sound deadener showdown. If anything he used too much which is fine with me. It is definitely effective but man such overkill. I definitely can't get any money for these crossovers now. Not that I was expecting much. The internals are fine but the covers are covered in that black glue stuff. He told me he covered them to avoid having water get in them. Makes sense I guess...

As far as the effect on sound quality....eh...its....different? It kind of seems like a step backwards. The tweeters sound kind of weird now. This is probably because I let the head unit do its autotune and then ran out of daylight. I will have to mess with it tomorrow. I am sure I can turn this into a step forward. The options available in network mode are pretty awesome. Took me a second to figure out how it worked (Go to network one, change crossover, then go to network 2,3,etc.) but wow. I think I will be able to avoid purchasing that MS-8!

Does anyone know at what point the 80prs's internal amp clips? I tried a few tones really fast on the oscope and it seemed like I could go all the way up except my 8000hz tone would look kinda fucked after like 48/62. I was in a hurry though and I don't know how good those files where.

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Try disconnecting all the speakers to the 80prs before testing the interns amp for them.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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