ModestDb Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Hey guys, I have a problem that I'm not sure how to resolve. I'm trying to play music from my phone, through my cd-player. So here's the issue in its full detail: I'm currently running a Pioneer DEH-P7700mp model head-unit. I use it because I love the endless possibilities it offers for EQ adjustment. Unlike most of todays head units available though, there is no port in the face for a USB flash drive, nor aux cord. On the back side of the head-unit is another story. There are 4 RCA jacks, all right next to each other and then another pair of RCA jacks coming off about 4" of RCA cord. They make a cord that goes from 3.5mm to RCA and I thought at least one set of these RCA jacks in my head-unit rear, were for input. I bought the cord and hooked it to my headphone jack on my phone and I've tried countless configurations, plugging the RCA ends into the head-unit. I can get music to play but it sounds nothing like the actual song because it's majorly distorted. This obviously is no good. Then I suddenly find a port in the back of the head-unit made for 3.5mm headphone cords. I have an aux cord (3.5mm to 3.5mm male). I tried plugging my phone in this way and nothing plays at all. I assume this is NOT for input but output only? I don't want to change head-units but I really would like to play my phone music in my car. Does anyone know if this head-unit has to be on a certain source/input/ or channel to input music through the 3.5mm jack or RCA jacks? If I get desperate enough, I suppose I could swap out head-units. I have another Pioneer with aux input in the closet that works. It sucks because I don't like its red illumination and the lack of EQ adjustments. Another option I have, is to rip every cd in my car, onto my computer and then turn it into several maxed out capacity MP3 cd's. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 I would suggest looking up the manual for the model you have. It would have all the information in it about which ports and connections on the rear side do and exactly what you can achieve with them. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Okay, I did a little more research and found some info. Apparently they make a different cable than the one I have. It's an IP Bus interface cable for adding a cd changer to the system. It has a 3.5mm lead that you can hook up to your headphone jack. So back to shopping I go. Sucks but at least I'm on my way to using my phone music in my car. Woot. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Okay, I did a little more research and found some info. Apparently they make a different cable than the one I have. It's an IP Bus interface cable for adding a cd changer to the system. It has a 3.5mm lead that you can hook up to your headphone jack. So back to shopping I go. Sucks but at least I'm on my way to using my phone music in my car. Woot. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Double post FTL 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 RootxBeer I found a youtube video detailing what I need to do. Apparently the user manual would have only gotten me so far. The guy doing the how to video says his manual isn't very helpful to figure out how to turn aux input on, via the head-unit menu options. Oddly...his video is titled as a DEH-P7700mp but his head-unit looks different than mine though. I'm wondering now, if I can turn the aux input on through my head-unit the same way he does and use that 3.5mm jack in the rear of mine...be back soon. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 if you have a headphone jack on the back of your unit or a set of rca inputs, you need to turn the unit off and hold either the audio or the source button, this will bring up the setup menu, it lets you set the time and turn warnings off/on and turn aux1 on/off and aux2 on/off. sounds like you just need to go into the menu and turn it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 if not use the ip-bus adapter, cdrb10 or cdrb20............ ^^ should work tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Okay the guy in the video, although has a visibly different looking model that shares the same model number that mine does, the steps are pretty much the same. I found the option to turn aux on in my menu. It's on but I still can't use the 3.5mm jack or the rca jacks in the back for anything useful.Looks like my options are...buy the IP Bus interface cord or...buy the IP Bus interface cord...haha. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModestDb Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I tested my 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male cord from my phone to my home stereo and it works. Apparently that 3.5mm jack in the back of my head-unit isn't for input I guess? I also just tested the 3.5mm to dual RCA cable, from my phone to my bedroom tv and it works also. So I'm guessing either none of the jacks in the back of my head-unit are for input or they're broke. 4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm 32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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