dannyjdm Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 This is my first time designing a box. I have a Sundown Audio Sa15 d2. I currently have it in a pre fab box which is horrible. The new box I designed is an L-Port with demensions 17x32x17 using 3/4" wood. The port is 15.5x3x30. According to Torres its tuned to 32hz and has a net volume of 3.23ft^3. Do you guys have any suggestions or is there anything wrong with the box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 The inner end of the port is stuck at the corner on 30" length, your port area could be larger, also your net volume, that is, if you are not heavily overpowering the sub, also you don't say what vehicle is it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyjdm Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 It is a 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. The sub and port are going to be facing into the cab and I have the back seats folded down. So you think my port should be longer? Or should it be wider? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyjdm Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Also I am running a 1200watt Hifonics Brutus and it is powering the sub at 2ohm. Which is about 900watt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyjdm Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 The inner end of the port is stuck at the corner on 30" length, your port area could be larger, also your net volume, that is, if you are not heavily overpowering the sub, also you don't say what vehicle is it. what do you mean its stuck at the corner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide:NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside. So that you know, the center line length of the port is 34 1/8". Regarding your question, the internal end of the L port must stay at least twice it's width from the side wall so that it's not choked or tunes lower than expected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyjdm Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside. So that you know, the center line length of the port is 34 1/8". Regarding your question, the internal end of the L port must stay at least twice it's width from the side wall so that it's not choked or tunes lower than expected. You are Awesome thanks bro! I'll be building it soon thanks for the help! How do I round the edges? By sanding them down or is there a more efficient way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 You're welcome. If you don't have a router, sanding is the way to do it, just try to get it done as nice as you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Also, if you are going to face the sub and port into the cab of the car, it won't sound all that great without sealing it probably. Pressure will escape into the rear trunk area, behind the box and cut the output of the sub down a lot. Best way to front fire is to wall the box off (seal around the space around the box). I'm sure someone else could explain or elaborate on this better than I, but rear firing would be the best way to go if you don't want to do a wall. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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