truedef Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 After dropping 8-10k on this setup I do not want to fuck these speakers up. I noticed that both on this system and my last system the gain on my Slash 300/4v3 and on my current system HD600/4 that with the gain completely turned down the speakers are still somehow getting power?? Although its mainly the tweeters not so much the mid drivers on my current system that are producing sound. I mean the mids do have some output but its not very clear or loud as compared to the tweeters. Is this normal? Is there some setting im overlooking? Its not like my Jl 13.5W7 and HD1200/1, that portion with the gain all the way down puts no input into the sub... Do I just need to turn my gain up on the 600/4 to achieve proper input to my Focals? Headunit Pioneer NEX8000 Flagship head unit HD600/4 with 2 sets of Focal KX2s ($2000 worth of speakers, dont want to fuck these up) HD1200/1 with a JL 13.5W7 in a pro wedge box I am running 14gauge speaker wire from the speakers all the way to the amp, not using any factory wiring. Its a little messy at the moment but heres the trunk in my challenger Doors
philrab Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 What are you using to set the amp gains? 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
thefourth Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 I recommend buying a dd1 and cc1 before you run anything. Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd.
Kyblack76 Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 What are you using to set the amp gains? I recommend buying a dd1 and cc1 before you run anything. Maybe im high, but it seems there is a DD1 sitting right there on the table ...... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
thefourth Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 What are you using to set the amp gains? I recommend buying a dd1 and cc1 before you run anything.Maybe im high, but it seems there is a DD1 sitting right there on the table ...... I must be higher than you. Cause I didn't see that. I didn't even look at the pics. Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd.
philrab Posted September 24, 2014 Report Posted September 24, 2014 Shit I missed it too, and I did look at the pics. To the OP, I run a JL 320.4 on my mids and highs, and even with the gain cranked to min (per DD-1's instructions for setting gain) I could still BARELY hear sound coming through them. Note, that is with the volume on the head unit maxed out (verified no distortion on my Kenwood X997 with the DD1.) That doesn't immediately send up a red flag to me at least. Is the RMS rating on your amp and your speakers a close match, or are you overpowering? 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
truedef Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Posted September 25, 2014 The speakers are 150 rms watt each. Im just curious why when the gain is all the way down i still have some sort of input into the speakers? http://www.focal.com/en/k2-power/180-165-krx2-3544052751321.html Im having issues with my DD1 and I think somethings wrong with it also... I can get the 1k signal and the 40hz signal, and when turning up the gain on my sub amp I can get the distortion light to go on and off as I turn the gain up but even when the gain is all the way up I do not get a solid distortion signal. same with the 600/4 amp
SIDE SHOW Posted September 25, 2014 Report Posted September 25, 2014 gain on the amp is not a volume switch, so turned right down doesn't mean it should have no output
truedef Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Posted September 25, 2014 thanks bud. Didn't realize that it would still have some output. i understand its not a volume dial. Ill try my dd1 again, i think some settings on my head unit are interfering with the dd1
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.