AstoSoup Posted September 25, 2014 Report Posted September 25, 2014 I currently have one, PowerBass 3XL 15 in my Ford Explorer (see sig for complete setup). I plan to add another in the future but the problem I am having, is these subs only like the lows. This is not really a bad thing, as I like the lows but I would also like some mid bass (40-60Hz). I have never had multiple size/model woofers in my 15 years in the game, always avoiding phase issues, etc. What I would like to know, is what type of subs I can add to add the mid bass I want, without causing phase/cancellation issues? And if I can do this, location?...Ported or sealed? The 15 moves some air and gets pretty loud on the lows, I am all about SPL. Any suggestions would be great, as I have never used multiple woofers before. Thanks! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
poorfish88 Posted September 25, 2014 Report Posted September 25, 2014 I'm no expert by any means, but if your box is made correctly and tuned to 30hz,and your setting are good. It should play 40 to60 with authority. Lots of debate on this but I feel mid bass is 60 to around 400hz, and mid range 400 to4000hz.
gckless Posted September 25, 2014 Report Posted September 25, 2014 This is an enclosure and/or crossover problem. My suggestion is to build a better box, subwoofers should have absolutely no problem running up to 60Hz+. If you want to bring in additional drivers, be prepared to add additional crossovers and get complicated, which is probably not what you want. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
Hifonics Posted September 25, 2014 Report Posted September 25, 2014 Check your Low Pass Filter settings on the amp? Make sure it's set high enough for your liking. If not, then I would agree with the others and say do a new box and tune it a bit higher to see if it makes a difference. It's most likely amp settings. Also try looking on the HU options to make sure you don't have anything blocking out your higher bass frequencies. 2010 F150 FX4-18" AA Mayhem-Crescendo BC3500d-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel-2 Crescendo FT1 -2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5 -Pioneer AVH-P3300BT-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights-All LED interior lighting-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga) -DC Power 270XP -Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery Coming soon/plans: -Build log-Blacked out mirror reflectors-Tinted tails/3rd brake light
AstoSoup Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Posted September 25, 2014 Thanks everyone, for the replies. I had a PA MOFO 15 in the same box and that hit the higher frequencies better for some reason, although my amp settings were completely different so that is something to look at. Both subs have right around the same Fs, which I know does not make a huge difference but..... I will try the amp settings, if that does not help maybe I do need to tune a bit higher. The ports are adjustable so this should not be a problem. If the amp settings make no difference, or adjusting the ports, a different box should surely solve the issue, right? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
AstoSoup Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Posted September 25, 2014 And gckless, I was looking at your build log a few weeks ago and you are a master at wood working! That box with the PR's came out awesome! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
poorfish88 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Posted September 26, 2014 I just read the man for your sub, and it says 3cubes max ported. Your box and more than a cube over the manual. Put it like this I have and love DC XL 12 I have made 4 or 5 boxes for it just for exp. Put that sub in a box too big and it falls on it's face a newbie would have been DC sucks bla bla. Put it a smaller box and shit gets real nasty.
gckless Posted September 26, 2014 Report Posted September 26, 2014 And gckless, I was looking at your build log a few weeks ago and you are a master at wood working! That box with the PR's came out awesome! Thanks man. Got a new box about to go in! You will want to double check your filters. High frequency output also has a lot to do with the driver itself. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
AstoSoup Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Posted September 26, 2014 I just read the man for your sub, and it says 3cubes max ported. Your box and more than a cube over the manual. Put it like this I have and love DC XL 12 I have made 4 or 5 boxes for it just for exp. Put that sub in a box too big and it falls on it's face a newbie would have been DC sucks bla bla. Put it a smaller box and shit gets real nasty. That was probably the manual for the old 3XL's, I had it mixed up at first until my sub came and I got the manual. http://www.powerbassusa.com/sites/powerbassusa.com/files/3XL_Woofer_Manual%20v2.pdf That^ one is the one for my version. It says 4.5 for optimal and mine is 4.4 so I am pretty close. I have though seen other people on here with theirs in a 3.5 cube so maybe the box could be too large. I am adding a second sometime within the next few months so I want to better design the new box with the resonant frequency of my vehicle and the 3XL. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
AstoSoup Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Posted September 26, 2014 And gckless, I was looking at your build log a few weeks ago and you are a master at wood working! That box with the PR's came out awesome! Thanks man. Got a new box about to go in! You will want to double check your filters. High frequency output also has a lot to do with the driver itself. I am going to check the filters better in the morning, once my neighbors won't snap lol. I thought the same thing about the frequency being dependent on the sub, as the Fs on this sub is pretty low (23.5). It seems to peak at around a 28-32Hz tone and has a pretty steep roll off after that. I like my lows but it would be nice to have some mid bass, unless I am asking for the moon? haha Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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