Tropkins Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 okay.. So when adding my total current draw together to see how much electrical I need, How do I figure my current draw for my mids and highs amplifier.. I know the easy answer is you add the fuse ratings on the amp and figure that in.. but when crossed over and cutting out lower frequencys the amp draws way less current, for example, on stock electrical with a volt meter noticed that with my 4 channel that I am using at the moment.. it does not even effect my cars charging system at full tilt... where as while I had my sub amp installed it would pull my voltage way down.. draw lots of current, lights dimming, etc... because generating the lower frequencies draws alot more current I am currently in the process of upgrading my entire electrical for my car... and was wondering how important it is to Figure in the draw of the mids and highs, considering their much lower impact on the draw from the charging system.. I know in larger systems this might be a bigger deal considering how much front stage is installed in the vehicle... but for smaller installs with only 1 crossed over 4 channel, the impact of said amp will be very low.. electrical going in will be: 200 Amp Singer Alt Optima Red top under the hood XS power D 1200 in the back 1/0 throughout Amplifiers will be: SoundQubed Q1-2200D @ 1ohm LP@100 SoundQubed Q4-120 @ 4ohm HP@100 Drivers will be: DC Audio Level 3 12's D4 in a PWKdesigns enclosure Frontstage is all currently Alpine TypeS.. but will be changed (Currently undecided) Neither Amplifier will be driven extremely hard.. purchased larger amps for more headroom.. So the electrical I have going in should be fine for this application if I am correct?
philrab Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 You say easy answer, I say safe answer. I'd put enough electrical in place to cover the fuse ratings of your amps, cause you know they shouldn't draw more than that unless something is wrong/shorted. I'm sure there are other opinions, but that's mine. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
Tropkins Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Posted October 2, 2014 You say easy answer, I say safe answer. I'd put enough electrical in place to cover the fuse ratings of your amps, cause you know they shouldn't draw more than that unless something is wrong/shorted. I'm sure there are other opinions, but that's mine. Yea.. safe answer would be more accurate.. so am misguided here. According to the xs guide.. the D1200 is good for up to 3000 watts as a secondary battery.. between that the optima and the singer 200 alt.. I should be fine considering my total is around 2680
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 Don't look at watts look at current demands. You should also set your low pass on the sub to 80 or lower 100 is to high and get some mids that can dig down to 80 or lower so you have overlap. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
Guest Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 your 120.4 has 40 amps less fusing than your 1200.1. plus im sure you're not anywhere near the full output of that 120.4 so you're drawing WAY less power with the mids and highs amp than the sub amp. nothing to do with frequencies. tl:dr your 120.4 isn't being pushed as hard as your 1200.1.
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 I just crunched some numbers for you at 14 volts and 70 percent efficiency you would be drawing 325 amps the lower the voltage drops the higher the current draw will be. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
philrab Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 Don't look at watts look at current demands. You should also set your low pass on the sub to 80 or lower 100 is to high and get some mids that can dig down to 80 or lower so you have overlap. And depending on the vehicle, plan on some deadener for the doors unless you want to end up like me, and chase rattling door panels every time your mids play a low note (crossed at 80 hz, they'll plan clean lower, but not without the FORKING rattling door panels.) 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
gckless Posted October 2, 2014 Report Posted October 2, 2014 Relying on fuse size isn't that accurate. https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/95/Choosing_Circuit_Protection "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
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