AstoSoup Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Lol, had to post this.... Single 15 is getting down and dirty! Busted the window/lock switch panel out of the door, right before my eyes @around 29Hz It was fine before, although I imagine something was weak because the passenger side is fine. Still, one 15 is doing destruction!!! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Dam looking good man. 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Dam looking good man. Thanks! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 11, 2014 Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Nice bro! Always tuned into a fellow explorer build! Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2014 Nice bro! Always tuned into a fellow explorer build! Hell yea! One of the best vehicles to build IMO! Do you have a build log? If so, I would love to check out another Explorer build! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Looks sick so far. 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Nice bro! Always tuned into a fellow explorer build!Hell yea! One of the best vehicles to build IMO! Do you have a build log? If so, I would love to check out another Explorer build! Yeah I do but I haven't gotten TOO much done yet, it is a budget build so kinda slow,I did just post pics of my 18" DC lvl 6 tonight tho!!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-update-big-3-done-finally/?p=2726230#entry2726230 Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Looks sick so far. Thanks man! Tryin my hardest with my budget, ya know.. lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 So I tore off all of the plastic on the back hatch, carefully of course lol. This has always been one of my weak points, not breaking the clips when I pull it apart. Much to my delight, I didn't break anything! Factory temp. barrier. Hatch was really dirty underneath, suggesting one or more of my seals aren't sealing properly. Will look that over... Going to be a lot to cover up, definitely not the flat surface I was expecting. Window hatch.... Not much to it really, mostly glass. As you can see, the bass has done a number on the already cracked latch and it is now totally disconnected from the frame. I drove some screws through it to hold it together so it would stay shut, but it's not even close to sealed. When the lows hit, you can feel the air blowing around it, lol. I will be bolting this shut very tightly and sealing it with clear silicone. Since the top window hatch is mostly glass and has almost no exposed surface area that isn't glass, I am simply going to put some deadener on the inside of the plastic trim. Will post pics once I get it cleaned and deadened. Thinking of also putting some on the outer edges of the glass. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter. 14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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