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need Help with a 4th order Bandpass build


dagobowhunter

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Posted

Hello. I want to build a 4th order bandpass for my older P3D4 12 sub (I want to say pre 2011. 500 watt ems and 1000 watt peak)to go into the back of my 1990 4Runner.I have a R500X1D at 2ohms can anyone help me with some design plans for one. I have a complete wood shop at my desposal. Plus the wood workings skills to build it I just can't seem to find the right plans. I have read over many sites that the ported side should be at a 2:1 ratio to the sealed side. I have tried to use some online calculator s but the specs I get from these sites aren't even big enough to fit the dispacment of the woofer. Not to mention the ratio I am getting from these programs is 2:1 but they are giving me the sealed portion is bigger than ported side. Am I doing something wrong with the input or what. I am looking for a bandpass that is SPL=SQL if at all possible. Also I am willing to pay for the right set of plans. I also understand that I might have to upgrade my amp. By the way I have upgraded most of my electrical system battery stinger 4 gauge power and ground wires Lanzar 1.9 farad Cap. I am going nuts. Help please.

Posted

Hello. I want to build a 4th order bandpass for my older P3D4 12 sub (I want to say pre 2011. 500 watt ems and 1000 watt peak)to go into the back of my 1990 4Runner.I have a R500X1D at 2ohms can anyone help me with some design plans for one. I have a complete wood shop at my desposal. Plus the wood workings skills to build it I just can't seem to find the right plans. I have read over many sites that the ported side should be at a 2:1 ratio to the sealed side. I have tried to use some online calculator s but the specs I get from these sites aren't even big enough to fit the dispacment of the woofer. Not to mention the ratio I am getting from these programs is 2:1 but they are giving me the sealed portion is bigger than ported side. Am I doing something wrong with the input or what. I am looking for a bandpass that is SPL=SQL if at all possible. Also I am willing to pay for the right set of plans. I also understand that I might have to upgrade my amp. By the way I have upgraded most of my electrical system battery stinger 4 gauge power and ground wires Lanzar 1.9 farad Cap. I am going nuts. Help please.

Those sites are wrong, there is no magic ratio that works. If you are thinking in ratio's, you are thinking wrong.

Why do want to do a 4th order bandpass?

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

Posted

Islandpride684

Although they aren't the highest quality of products I thought they where a big improvment over what I was using. Here is a complete list of products

Stinger SK4641 Amp Kit

XS Power D800 Battery

LANZAR LQ19CAP 1.9 FARAD POWER DIGITAL CAPACITOR

Bassworx RP12G

"08 Kicker KS13 Tweeters in the door panels w inches abouve the door handles

"07 Kicker DS400 IN the stock locations

"07 Kicker DS5250 in the stock rear locations

What do you suggest I am open to all suggestions.

Why not keep it simple and go with a ported box? A good designed ported box will sound good also...plus I would remove that cap you have installed...

Posted

Islandpride sorry I just noticed that you said remove the CAP I installed. I thought you said remove the CRAP I installed. I have an old ass 4Runner that with the battery I have the alternator I have right now just won't keep up. I know I have to upgrade it I just can't afford it right now. The cap helps pick up the extra load on my system. Still any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Hello. I want to build a 4th order bandpass for my older P3D4 12 sub (I want to say pre 2011. 500 watt ems and 1000 watt peak)to go into the back of my 1990 4Runner.I have a R500X1D at 2ohms can anyone help me with some design plans for one. I have a complete wood shop at my desposal. Plus the wood workings skills to build it I just can't seem to find the right plans. I have read over many sites that the ported side should be at a 2:1 ratio to the sealed side. I have tried to use some online calculator s but the specs I get from these sites aren't even big enough to fit the dispacment of the woofer. Not to mention the ratio I am getting from these programs is 2:1 but they are giving me the sealed portion is bigger than ported side. Am I doing something wrong with the input or what. I am looking for a bandpass that is SPL=SQL if at all possible. Also I am willing to pay for the right set of plans. I also understand that I might have to upgrade my amp. By the way I have upgraded most of my electrical system battery stinger 4 gauge power and ground wires Lanzar 1.9 farad Cap. I am going nuts. Help please.

Those sites are wrong, there is no magic ratio that works. If you are thinking in ratio's, you are thinking wrong.

Why do want to do a 4th order bandpass?

kirill007 the reason I wanted to build a bandpass is because I would like to build a system that pounded the ground like I was able to do back in the day when I didn't have any financial responsibilities. Well today I have kids mortgage you know all that crapswell trying to build a system like that is hard to do so as close as I can get to that will be what I am shooting for. Back in the day a homie of mine built me a bandpass for a low end sub I had and it hit twice as hard as it did in the box that the install company built for my car way back when. I figured that since it made that crappy sub hit hard as hell it would make my P3 hit even harder than it does

Posted

Islandpride sorry I just noticed that you said remove the CAP I installed. I thought you said remove the CRAP I installed. I have an old ass 4Runner that with the battery I have the alternator I have right now just won't keep up. I know I have to upgrade it I just can't afford it right now. The cap helps pick up the extra load on my system. Still any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a good article you can read on why they are useless...

http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

Posted

Islandpride sorry I just noticed that you said remove the CAP I installed. I thought you said remove the CRAP I installed. I have an old ass 4Runner that with the battery I have the alternator I have right now just won't keep up. I know I have to upgrade it I just can't afford it right now. The cap helps pick up the extra load on my system. Still any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a good article you can read on why they are useless...

http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

that article is wrong....

Posted

Islandpride sorry I just noticed that you said remove the CAP I installed. I thought you said remove the CRAP I installed. I have an old ass 4Runner that with the battery I have the alternator I have right now just won't keep up. I know I have to upgrade it I just can't afford it right now. The cap helps pick up the extra load on my system. Still any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a good article you can read on why they are useless...

http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

that article is wrong....

You have a better explanation?

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