m0rtin Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 i posted awhile back asking if my sub or amp has gone bad but now im thinking it could be something to do with my electrical system and low voltage. i noticed i can still bump some bass with the volume at like 15 out of 35 but using my bass knob to lower the gain but still cuts out on bass heavy songs. i would bump with my volume normally at 28 without any problems when my system was working. my lights always dimmed when bumping but now even at low volumes the lights seem to dim a lot with bass knob adjusted low. my question is: is it low voltage thats causing my amp to click into protect mode? has my electrical system gone bad after so many years? would a "big 3 upgrade" fix my problem? here was my original post: ive been bumping my system for years with little to no problems (loose wiring, blown fuse, etc.) about a week ago i was driving n playing a song with heavy low bass at the usual volume i bump at n i started to notice a burning smell. ive smelled this smell before coming from my enclosure port then shortly after all sub bass stopped. i pulled over to check wat was wrong n sure enough my trunk smelled like something was heating up. i found out that my system still bumps at real low volumes. once i turn it up past 10 or depending on the song im playing, the sub stops bumping n i can hear the amp click into protection mode. ill turn the volume down, sub comes back on. n off again once i turn it up. i was thinking it could be the fuse again so i went n got a new one with no luck. same thing still happening. so my question is: is my sub blown even though it still bumps at low volumes or has my amp gone bad since it stops or goes into protection mode once i turn it up? i got 1x 12in alpine type x wired to 2 ohms powered by a kicker zx 1000.1 at 2 ohms stable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I've had that happen to me in the past, but it was because I was running my sub at 1 OHM on a 2 OHM stable amp. I'd suggest the amp is most likely your issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Procces of elimination Check all wiring that it is tight and no corrosion. Turn all bass boost down Put a dmm on the amp to check voltage at the amp she it goes into protect Try and find a dd1 or oscope near you that you can use or have the owner use to seat your gains Most likely voltage drop. Test it with a dmm. If voltage drop is below the range kicker designed the amp for it will protect. This can be due to a bad battery or an alt going bad. Both of which can be checked at a parts store usually for free. If its the battery di yourself a favor and upgrade to a nice agm battery If its the alt (pending stick size) an upgrade to one around 150-175amps wouldn't be bad. While your at it do the big 3 it wont hurt. If the stock alt is 120-150amps imo replace with an OEM alt and upgrade to a nice agm battery and still do the big 3. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 definitely gonna get my hands on a dmm soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EDH Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I would start by checking the subwoofers coils. Grab a multimeter and verify that each coil reads 4 ohm. Current setup DD Z318 Extra Stiff, Kevlar cone, Double top plate x2 Banda Viking 10k x2 5 Banks of Maxwell 2.85v 3400F caps Build log Termpro Profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 thanks for the help and replies ill see what i can do n hopefully be bumping again soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 how do i check voltage drop on my amp? do i just stick the probes on the dmm to the +/- or on the power wire?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 On the power and neg that goes into the amp. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 $20 bucks says it's your alt. really easy way to tell. wait for night turn your headlights on.and roll down your window (if you have power windows) if your lights dim from that your Alt is dying. the ohm load wouldn't ssuddenly change the amp and volume level. one day soon your car isn't gonna start or it will die while your driving cuz the Alt will stop. had that happen in my Saturn, durango, and my grand prix... stock alts hate systems! jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 $20 bucks says it's your alt. really easy way to tell. wait for night turn your headlights on.and roll down your window (if you have power windows) if your lights dim from that your Alt is dying. the ohm load wouldn't ssuddenly change the amp and volume level. one day soon your car isn't gonna start or it will die while your driving cuz the Alt will stop. had that happen in my Saturn, durango, and my grand prix... stock alts hate systems! I disagree with that testing method. In my explorer, even when my radio/amp are off and i roll the windows down it dims the dash lights. 1997 explorer, replaced the 130A alt last july with a brand new 130A. Lights dimming due to an added load to the electrical doesnt signify a bad alt. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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