My slow build log. 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo

[bcbrassard]

Long term projects take patients and thats the hardest part sometimes. Good job in the pods. Whats next now?

[milburyl]

Long term projects take patients and thats the hard hardest part sometimes. Good job in the pods. Whats next now?

Not too sure. It's supposed to warm up for a few days starting Monday, hoping to get my shed plastic and insulated and spray expanding foam in all the cracks and crevices. Need to heat that sucker so I can start cutting wood for the amp racks and run some wiring.

[bcbrassard]

That what i would do if i were you, utilize that space to be able to work in. As for the batteries i would keep shopping around. Spend some money for a quality battery up front. I think you'd be happier in the long run.

[milburyl]

That what i would do if i were you, utilize that space to be able to work in. As for the batteries i would keep shopping around. Spend some money for a quality battery up front. I think you'd be happier in the long run.

They sell Optima red tops at Walmart too, but they are $239. I think 2 of those $99 deep cycle batteries would provide more power than one Optima or even one XS or Kinetik battery. Was looking at the Shurukin batteries on Amazon. They look like good batteries. But they are expensive too. I think I would be better served by buying 2 of them Everstart batteries for $99 each, better yet, buying 3 would be even better. The price is good and the amp/hours is pretty decent too. If you had two of them, you'd have 280 amp/hours. You would have to spend upwards of $300 for a single battery to provide that much reserve capacity.

[bcbrassard]

Ya you can go that route. All i can tell you is that i have bought cheap stuff only to try to save a few dollars and have ripped it out to replace it with stuff that cost me a little more. Ended up having twice the $ spent on the item. Good stuffs not cheap and it good for a reason. Black Fridays around the corner and you might look into deals they have coming out to help save money. All i know is electrical is the most important part of the Build IMO. Amps do rated at certain volts so they have to be feed that to stay stay clean and make rated.

You spend X amount on amps to do rated so you need the electrical to support the amps. Others wise your high dollar speakers might distort and sound like shit. Just hard on the whole system if electrical isn't done well with longevity in mind.

[milburyl]

Ya you can go that route. All i can tell you is that i have bought cheap stuff only to try to save a few dollars and have ripped it out to replace it with stuff that cost me a little more. Ended up having twice the $ spent on the item. Good stuffs not cheap and it good for a reason. Black Fridays around the corner and you might look into deals they have coming out to help save money. All i know is electrical is the most important part of the Build IMO. Amps do rated at certain volts so they have to be feed that to stay stay clean and make rated.

You spend X amount on amps to do rated so you need the electrical to support the amps. Others wise your high dollar speakers might distort and sound like shit. Just hard on the whole system if electrical isn't done well with longevity in mind.

Yeah, electrical is VERY important, but I did read a review here on different batteries and the difference was only tenths of a db among 4 or 5 different batteries. Tenths is good if your a db drag guy and those tenths matter, but I am not a db drag competitor. Another good thing is that my JL amps do rated power over a wide voltage range, so I get 1000 watts rms at 11.4 volts and at 14.0 volts. They call it "R.I.P.S.". Regulated Intelligent Power Supply. My weak link right now is the 65 amp factory alternator. That needs to be addressed before batteries and caps. I may just order 2 more of the Kinetik HC600'S and put them both under the hood, and then have 2 in the rear as well. They were decently priced($59+shipping). Like I said earlier, I also have a 10 farad cap and two 1 farad cap. Am gonna hook the 10 farad up after the rear batteries and before the distribution block, then put a 1 farad immediately before each amp(less than 6" wire from cap to amp). The caps also have voltage displays on them that will make it easy to monitor, and with 1 for each amp, I can see which amp is sucking more power(sub amp obviously).

[bcbrassard]

Ya you can go that route. All i can tell you is that i have bought cheap stuff only to try to save a few dollars and have ripped it out to replace it with stuff that cost me a little more. Ended up having twice the $ spent on the item. Good stuffs not cheap and it good for a reason. Black Fridays around the corner and you might look into deals they have coming out to help save money. All i know is electrical is the most important part of the Build IMO. Amps do rated at certain volts so they have to be feed that to stay stay clean and make rated.

You spend X amount on amps to do rated so you need the electrical to support the amps. Others wise your high dollar speakers might distort and sound like shit. Just hard on the whole system if electrical isn't done well with longevity in mind.

Yeah, electrical is VERY important, but I did read a review here on different batteries and the difference was only tenths of a db among 4 or 5 different batteries. Tenths is good if your a db drag guy and those tenths matter, but I am not a db drag competitor. Another good thing is that my JL amps do rated power over a wide voltage range, so I get 1000 watts rms at 11.4 volts and at 14.0 volts. They call it "R.I.P.S.". Regulated Intelligent Power Supply. My weak link right now is the 65 amp factory alternator. That needs to be addressed before batteries and caps. I may just order 2 more of the Kinetik HC600'S and put them both under the hood, and then have 2 in the rear as well. They were decently priced($59+shipping). Like I said earlier, I also have a 10 farad cap and two 1 farad cap. Am gonna hook the 10 farad up after the rear batteries and before the distribution block, then put a 1 farad immediately before each amp(less than 6" wire from cap to amp). The caps also have voltage displays on them that will make it easy to monitor, and with 1 for each amp, I can see which amp is sucking more power(sub amp obviously).

Ya I read that thread too. Get what you feel will work good. I believe you get what you pay for. I also believe batteries are way better than Farad cap. Ran them both and batteries win every time. 10 farad maybe, 1 farad caps are a waste IMO. Cool looking in the build but the performance isnt there.

Singer alts should be able to build you one with enough amperage to run your system. Hell of a guy.

[milburyl]

Ya you can go that route. All i can tell you is that i have bought cheap stuff only to try to save a few dollars and have ripped it out to replace it with stuff that cost me a little more. Ended up having twice the $ spent on the item. Good stuffs not cheap and it good for a reason. Black Fridays around the corner and you might look into deals they have coming out to help save money. All i know is electrical is the most important part of the Build IMO. Amps do rated at certain volts so they have to be feed that to stay stay clean and make rated.

You spend X amount on amps to do rated so you need the electrical to support the amps. Others wise your high dollar speakers might distort and sound like shit. Just hard on the whole system if electrical isn't done well with longevity in mind.

Yeah, electrical is VERY important, but I did read a review here on different batteries and the difference was only tenths of a db among 4 or 5 different batteries. Tenths is good if your a db drag guy and those tenths matter, but I am not a db drag competitor. Another good thing is that my JL amps do rated power over a wide voltage range, so I get 1000 watts rms at 11.4 volts and at 14.0 volts. They call it "R.I.P.S.". Regulated Intelligent Power Supply. My weak link right now is the 65 amp factory alternator. That needs to be addressed before batteries and caps. I may just order 2 more of the Kinetik HC600'S and put them both under the hood, and then have 2 in the rear as well. They were decently priced($59+shipping). Like I said earlier, I also have a 10 farad cap and two 1 farad cap. Am gonna hook the 10 farad up after the rear batteries and before the distribution block, then put a 1 farad immediately before each amp(less than 6" wire from cap to amp). The caps also have voltage displays on them that will make it easy to monitor, and with 1 for each amp, I can see which amp is sucking more power(sub amp obviously).

Ya I read that thread too. Get what you feel will work good. I believe you get what you pay for. I also believe batteries are way better than Farad cap. Ran them both and batteries win every time. 10 farad maybe, 1 farad caps are a waste IMO. Cool looking in the build but the performance isnt there.

Singer alts should be able to build you one with enough amperage to run your system. Hell of a guy.

The only reasons I'm gonna use the caps are 1:I already own them and 2:The voltage display on them. Be interesting to see what voltages I get at each stage of the electrical(before distribution block and before each individual amp).

How do I get hold of the guy to do my alternator? I was looking at Mechman Alternators too. They make a "universal/slim" alternator that is rated for 170 amps. $349+shipping. That should be ebough for what I'm running hopefully. Maybe Singer is cheaper? Hopefully I can get the alternator out soon while the car isn't being used and send it to him if that's how it works.

[bcbrassard]

Ya i know why you want to run them and thats cool. Its your build set it up how every you want, not trying to be a dick, just saying after all i have learned i wouldn't waste wire or connections on Farad caps.

Goolge Singer Alts and email him. He is usually crazy busy so give him a couple days to respond. He takes stock alt (which you could send to him to lower costs) and rebuilds them to as large of output as the case will allow him too. Thats what i would do. No universal fit unless Singer cant do something.

[boom50cal]

second Singer Alts. Love my 220a unit. customer service is through the roof with mike