alaskanzx5 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 A box can flex some without bracing, from what I've read some believe double baffles do no good and its more worth it to just brace. Put some more deadener into it. That can help lower the resonant freq of the vehicle and as always helps with sq a lot. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 A box can flex some without bracing, from what I've read some believe double baffles do no good and its more worth it to just brace. Put some more deadener into it. That can help lower the resonant freq of the vehicle and as always helps with sq a lot. I am planning on installing my rear door speakers soon and will be taking the skins off to do so. I have some left over deadener, enough to do the rear doors so I will do them. Rear hatch has it on the outer and inner metal, plus the rear side of the plastic molding, so it's solid there. The latch busted from pressure so I have it screwed shut right now, it's tight but still rattles somewhere. Should I also do the side panels in the rear and the corners? Roof seems like a ton of work, I hate removing headliners... is it worth it to do the roof? The first box was 1.5" all the way around so I would think it wasn't flexing. This box has 45's and a generous coat of fiberglass in it, should help some.... If you want to check it out for yourself, here is my build log, shows the deadener I did, along with the inside of the boxes. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192226-2003-ford-explorer-starting-small-working-my-way-up/ To the original question however, I know a lot of you have SUV's, what has been your best results in facing the subs and port? Am about to build this box and want to get it right, as I can't afford to do it a second time lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 From what I've read and seen sub up and either port back or to the side. Doing the roof and the rest of the cargo area should help greatly. I would do the front doors as well for better sound upfront. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Planning on doing as much as possible. Problem here is the cold temps that hit very early.... I don't have a garage and as we all know, that stuff don't stick in the cold. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 I live in Alaska, I know all to well about the cold t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Yepp, so you know how much it sucks lol. I need a garage badly! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 So am going to go with ports back, subs up.... two, 6" aeros @30Hz. Will be starting the build this week so if anyone has anything to add, would appreciate it. REALLY do not want to build this twice, lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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