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What happened to my crossover?


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This may be a stupid question, but how to you go active without a sound processor? Miss/highs is my least knowledgable area, I just thought u needed a 360 or a cleensweep to run active? I must be wrong thinking that?

I believe you could go activie with out the processor. The processor just gives you more tuning possibilities than a normal head unit. Like my pioneer has a 5 band eq so I won't be to boost/cut that many frequencies. Also if your amp has the setting high enough for the crossover on your tweeters then you don't have to use the signal processor to set the crossover points, Which I'm sure you could.

Heres a amp that would be good for active set ups http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/crescendo-audio-s800-4/

sig_zps1a8d8f11.jpg

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Maybe I should start a new thread, not tryna thread jack, just saw it as related material to the topic. So if u ran components without the processor and crossover, u would need to run each tweeter/mid driver on its own channel, yes? Wouldn't that lead to overpowering the tweets? Or do most 4 channels have multiple gain settings for that reason alone?

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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Curious to see how going active and figuring out proper tuning works out for a guy that blew two sets of tweeters before figuring out his crossover was broken.

Kinda like telling someone that keeps crashing mopeds to buy a crotch rocket...

Taylor, best of luck. Keep reading and learning or get someone local to help with your tuning. Hope it works out.

Static drops are my bag.

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Curious to see how going active and figuring out proper tuning works out for a guy that blew two sets of tweeters before figuring out his crossover was broken.

Kinda like telling someone that keeps crashing mopeds to buy a crotch rocket...

Taylor, best of luck. Keep reading and learning or get someone local to help with your tuning. Hope it works out.

But yes I agree with this: Either figure out and learn what your doing wrong to make your tweeters blow. Or research and read and try and get some local help. I

sig_zps1a8d8f11.jpg

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Curious to see how going active and figuring out proper tuning works out for a guy that blew two sets of tweeters before figuring out his crossover was broken.

Kinda like telling someone that keeps crashing mopeds to buy a crotch rocket...

Taylor, best of luck. Keep reading and learning or get someone local to help with your tuning. Hope it works out.

Lol, I did not blow my tweeters. Just the crossover. And tbh I was just trying to be cheap, it is not that I did not know what I was doing! :)

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he either needs a good HU or a processor. if not some really bad ass amps that can be tuned.. there is no point in going active if he has neither of them and most likely will need more speakers after his done burning coils. going active is a good advice but for this is not the best option. my suggestion is repairing the crossover or get some new ones.. its a lot cheaper than buying a processor or amps that are capable of tuning at a very high frequency for the tweeters.. going actives takes planning. not just throwing a speaker per channel on any amp or any HU

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Apologies Taylor, had you confused with another member on the blown tweeters.

In the pics it's hard to tell what happened to that capacitor and if it happened before or after the scorch mark by the resistor.

Could be from clipping.

Could be from overpowering.

Could be an install issue and slamming the door caused it to break free.

Static drops are my bag.

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well about overpowering.. in most cases it's the same. like my type r Comps are 4ohm for tweets and 4ohm for mids. so with my xover i was seeing a 2ohm load at the amp. when i ditched the xover each speaker had a 4ohm load off the amp. either way there getting half power.

and as mentioned you have a gain for a reason, it doesn't have to be at Max unclipping.

decks like the 80prs really shine for running active. instead of most decks that have front rear and sub, it has highs mids and low.

mmost x overs aren't worth it. they just make life easier.. until they fail.

jvc deck

stinger 1800 front

hc 2000 kinetic rear

2 runs of 1/0g

big 3/4

ct 60.4

2 ct 1400.1

ct EXO 15 d1

lots of deadner

type r comps front stage

6 kicker tweets rear stage

lots of great stuff

coming soon

ho alt

more bats

ct comps for front stage

more deadner

sweet amp rack

lots of L.E.D lights

new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)

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my type r Comps are 4ohm for tweets and 4ohm for mids. so with my xover i was seeing a 2ohm load at the amp. when i ditched the xover each speaker had a 4ohm load off the amp.

That's not how it works Aj. A component set with a passive crossover and 4 ohm drivers yields a 4 ohm load at the amp. Impedance is only affected at the common frequencies or overlap. That's why passives typically have two separate crossover points--one for the woofer low pass and a separate for the tweeter high pass--at a slight underlap. i.e. 3k for the woofer and 3.5k for the tweeter. The common area in between will see a slightly lower impedance during rolloff and therefore fill in the acoustic gap naturally. Passive crossover designers take all that into account--well maybe not on some cheap sets.

So 100x2 to a 4ohm set passive is still more power than 50x4 to the same set active.

Static drops are my bag.

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