xan326 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Couldn't find a section specifically for deadening materials, and I know everyone on here supports second skin. But I ran across this stuff online. 3/16" thick. 23db noise reduction at 125hz and 42db reduction at 400hz. Closed cell polyethylene foam with 99% aluminium on both sides, held down with a spray adhesive. 40 sqft weighs less than 2 pounds, and costs $35, 200 sqft is $145, with shipping on top of that. I wouldn't think this would necessarily be a vibration dampener, but people on other forums have used this in place of name brand dampeners and said they got promising results. Also the people will send a free sample if you email them. Now does anyone here have any experience with this stuff? I'm needing to dampen my car but I don't want to break the bank, and this stuff seems like a good deal. thats the link to the site, they also sell on ebay apparently, and I found a canadian site that sells the stuff. I know this forum is big on Second Skin, I know the stuff works, but I'm wanting to see if there's cheaper stuff out there. If needed I could try to wait out a few paychecks and get the stuff we all know works, but time is money, and I want this build done already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 try it and let us know if it works or not.... Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf2 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 The idea behind deadener is mass loading which this doesn't do. To me, if it wasn't aluminum foil on both sides, I'd be buying it to load up my plastic panels in my truck to stop rattles in that sense. I can understand trying to find a cheap way to do things, I was in that position not too long ago, but I can tell you IF there was a way to do it cheap like that, that's actually even worth doing, everyone would do it. I also can't respect a company selling tin tape for that much. Considering at your local hardware store you can get a roll for a fraction of the price. (In reference to the optional "Seam sealer tape" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 The idea behind deadener is mass loading which this doesn't do. To me, if it wasn't aluminum foil on both sides, I'd be buying it to load up my plastic panels in my truck to stop rattles in that sense. I can understand trying to find a cheap way to do things, I was in that position not too long ago, but I can tell you IF there was a way to do it cheap like that, that's actually even worth doing, everyone would do it. I also can't respect a company selling tin tape for that much. Considering at your local hardware store you can get a roll for a fraction of the price. (In reference to the optional "Seam sealer tape" No,no,no. A deadener=vibration dampener. Mass loading is the worst way to control vibrations since you don't actually control them, only shift them into lower frequencies. A good dampener has a butyl/rubber layer and a stiff top layer. To the OP, that stuff isn't worth your money for this application. Just buy smaller amount of quality product, it will work better. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xan326 Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 try it and let us know if it works or not.... The point of asking was to know how well it works. Of course it will work to some degree, but how well it works compared to other products, I wouldn't know. No,no,no. A deadener=vibration dampener. Mass loading is the worst way to control vibrations since you don't actually control them, only shift them into lower frequencies. A good dampener has a butyl/rubber layer and a stiff top layer. To the OP, that stuff isn't worth your money for this application. Just buy smaller amount of quality product, it will work better. I know butyl with a stiff layer is good, but wouldn't foam dampen vibrations also? I know in home applications, foam layers are used in floors and walls to dampen sound, wouldn't it work the same way here? Also with the two layers of aluminum, would it add enough stiffness? I know SS, Dyna, etc., the hundreds of brands of butyl and aluminum work great, but I'm wanting to know how this stuff turns out since I haven't seen anything else like this. I've seen just pure foam, but never aluminium backed (and in this case, both sides) foam. I've emailed them about getting a sample, but I honestly don't know how to test the sample against samples from other companies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 try it and let us know if it works or not.... The point of asking was to know how well it works. Of course it will work to some degree, but how well it works compared to other products, I wouldn't know. No,no,no. A deadener=vibration dampener. Mass loading is the worst way to control vibrations since you don't actually control them, only shift them into lower frequencies. A good dampener has a butyl/rubber layer and a stiff top layer. To the OP, that stuff isn't worth your money for this application. Just buy smaller amount of quality product, it will work better. I know butyl with a stiff layer is good, but wouldn't foam dampen vibrations also? I know in home applications, foam layers are used in floors and walls to dampen sound, wouldn't it work the same way here? Also with the two layers of aluminum, would it add enough stiffness? I know SS, Dyna, etc., the hundreds of brands of butyl and aluminum work great, but I'm wanting to know how this stuff turns out since I haven't seen anything else like this. I've seen just pure foam, but never aluminium backed (and in this case, both sides) foam. I've emailed them about getting a sample, but I honestly don't know how to test the sample against samples from other companies. In home applications it isn't used to dampen vibrations, it's used to block the sound. Sound barrier is the proper term. A vibration dampener=deadener=CLD tile, is a product that reduces the vibrations by turning it into heat. Foam layer with 2 layers of alumium is useless for a deadener, if it's a closed cell foam then it would be good to be used as a sound barrier if it has a high density. Blocking sound needs mass, the more the better. Dampening the vibration is completed by a layer that is flexible but becomes a little more rigid if it's shape is changing, and the aluminium layer is there to provide some strength for the panel it is mounted to, which reduces "flex". I'm not a fan of rule of thumbs, but this is more a criteria, if it doesn't have a butyl layer and a decently thick top layer it won't be a good dampener. Why don't you look for information on this site, it's full of good information/knowledge. (and maybe order from him if you decide to buy something.) http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I don't understand why nobody has ever used a non-newtonian material like D3O to be used as a deadener, instead of the butyl layer. Problem would probably be to adhere it properly to the surface but some decent cement glue should do the trick easily. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT.Smoke Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I would stick with some of the known products out there Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 seems useless... all my vibration, flex, rattle, and roll isn't from 125hz and damn Sure isn't from 400hz. for $145 bucks you can get enough good deadner to do your entire trunk! plus good deadner, second skin, sky high, you only need 25% coverage. i do 8/100% coverage but with the stuff you listed you would prolly need 200% coverage for the same result. lets put it like this, when building a box do you buy a bunch of 1/8 inch thick pieces of wood and glue them together? or do you use 3/4? you use 3/4inch. even tho the overall cost is about the the same. you need less of the 3/4inch wood to do a better job. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 ^i like that analogy Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 ^i like anal me to! lmoa.... jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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