Tecomah Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Looks awesome 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo1103 Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 I love aruaco, picked up 4 sheets of it back in December 2002 Honda CR-VAlpine 9887My BuildRebuilding... Second Skin Damp 4 DC XL 15's 2 DC 5ks Singer 320 amp 6 cap banksSky High wire 2 VM-1's OM-1 all under window line Team DC Audio Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way. I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks for all the kind words. 2 subs mounted and front roof installed. The roof is double layered, and the bottom layer had to be notched to fit the basket. Yep its that tight! Front cleats and steel installed and painted. All 4 layers of the baffle were coated in resin inside the sub cut outs. Helps bond it all as 1 piece, prevent any leaks between layers and just looks cool. Not that anyone would see it anyway tho. With an entire box of 3" spax screws and 2 tubes of PL holding all the layers together it is pretty stout. Add to that it is 6 layers thick at the seams plus steel I think it isn't going anywhere. You can also see the 1 1/2 steel pipe bracing in the center of the baffle to the back wall if you look close. Another view from further back. You can see all the Kreg holes in the back wall. Wasn't scared to use them lol. The funky yellow color is just the epoxy to fill in the holes and prevent any screws from coming loose. It hasn't cured fully yet so it isn't sanded down smooth. All the cleats in the seams are rounded over with a 3/4" bit. I don't know if it helps with air flow but it looks better than just a block of wood there I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hmm. Have a fair amount to seal off and it is right at the window too. Will make the outer layer of the front wall contour as close as possible to seal what I can then build off of that. Picked up this thing at home depot. It is twist ties for camping. Comes in 36" twin pack for $6. It is fairly stiff but molds easy and holds its shape pretty well. Again, much better than carving up cardboard imo. Have it shaped for the side of the body for a template to cut the front wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 need to get me something like that. Me and cardboard don't have the combined patience to work together On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Update All 3 SHDs in. Serious pita to invert mount 110lb subs. Had to use blocks, shims and a port a power jack. Wired them up to the distro blocks and did some Fb testing before the loading walls went up. Tested at low power to check for any leaks and did not find any. However, 2 of the subs are making noise. 1 seems to be ok. These were bought used and were thought to be ok, they were only used at world finals but were beat on pretty well. Talked to Murphy and he is taking care of it. Sending 2 drop ins once the rest of the soft parts show up. Pulled subs out. Put in 2 Fi SP4s we had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Once again, performed Fb testing. Little back story, the original plan was to build for 2 sp4s tuned dumb low (for a 4th). Was going to be build with the option of putting in a 3rd if it did not perform as hoped. Then came across the deal on the SHDs while at Tantric. Back to the original plan for now until these are ready to go back in. Loading walls are up. 3 layers, with the outside layer cut to contour as close as possible to the body to help seal off. Blocked down the upper and lower sections of the port to shrink down port area. No port yet. Also a little LED action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Well have done some testing at low volume to plot a response curve. Kept it low to try to eliminate variables such as voltage and coil temperature. Green line is full open port area. Purple line is port area at 230 sq in. Did not do much port testing since this is a temporary setup. Made a best guess and just went with it. No actual port tuning yet. Graph is 22hz to 52hz at fine resolution. Otherwise it just looked like a straight line lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juan777 Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Nice, Flat response! I hope I get to hear this at LST! The L@zy Hoe 2005 Chevy Tahoe 2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids 4 10 midrange 4 6.5 midwoofers 4 Tweeters 6 Supertweeters 2 Lithium 80AH Batteries 24K Watts 4 Custom 18s Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works The Build Log Like Loud Bass? Click Here! On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said: See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on. On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said: I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Oh, and worth mentioning is the roof is going to have to be built. On 3k it has ripped the roof in a few spots enough to see daylight thru. Guess that will be built before doing the seal off on the sides. The top is done as seen in a previous pic. Made a piece to fit tight between the top of the roof to the top of the wall. Left a small gap to backfill with foam then epoxy'd down the entire seam. Working really well and makes it all one solid piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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