thethriller Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Posted February 21, 2015 I feel like final preparations for this box are complete... My original pic hasn't deviated terribly but the design of the port made it a challenge. The airspace image from my most recent pic has lost a very minor bit while designing for the port, but here is what I've come up with: Plug that length in: Still around the 34Hz area, happy with that. Here is a video of the completed SolidWorks design, doing an exploded view:
Joe X Posted February 21, 2015 Report Posted February 21, 2015 The port doesn't start at 20" from the left but where it becomes a regular shaped duct. Also the sub may be in an unloading position. A couple of things you may want to look into.
thethriller Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Posted February 21, 2015 The port is a bit fiddly, and maybe you have a good eye or just a good guess, but indeed it doesn't start exactly there but around half an inch less which is accounted for on the other end. What would you recommend changing to prevent unloading?
thethriller Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Posted March 19, 2015 Obviously been a while, but I decided to go ahead with this plan; as such I suppose a few teaser photos are in order: Final pieces gluing: (The Sub chamber itself, nice 45° angles on the visible areas, chamfered the top edge with router... will look good eventually!) Standing up vertically, hard to believe this will fit almost completely hidden in the back of a car: Side pic, just because: Minor testing session, tossed it into the back of my dad's van (Alpine PDR-V75, Dual-2 wired in series to 4Ohm, so getting 250W-ish): SO I shut the hatch and cranked some tunes. It certainly was louder and got lower than the sub that normally is tucked into the left side of the back of the van (Single sealed Rockford Fosgate P3D410 @ 2Ohm getting 350W-ish), even on less power. I hope it sounds as good or better in the Focus, but time will tell. Today I received my 6-1/2" speaker mounting adapters (fucking Ford) and took a glance at running my Sky High 4 gauge under the hood... not pleasant. I know wiring four doors worth of components is going to take me a while, but maybe I'll start with the back speakers this weekend. I also finally ordered the P1000X5 today, so next week I'll have no more excuses for slacking off on the install!
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 Looks good. I'm curious to hear how it will sound when you get it to its proper home! "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted March 19, 2015 Report Posted March 19, 2015 Very creative use of space. Looks like it was fun to build. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.
thethriller Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Posted March 24, 2015 Got the P1000x5 today, here's the birth sheet 716W to sub, 1359 total (~80WPC to doors @ 4Ohm, however the Infinity's are actually 3Ohm! (And BTW cannot take all the power if you were wondering.) Of course I only have the rear doors wired (awaiting rubber grommets to FULLY complete their install.) I had to throw the sub/box in to do some listening/testing: Pretty good action pic from a cell phone, hehe. My biggest gripe is that originally I had hoped to use the AudioControl LC2i remote output to turn on the amp (LC2i turns on via speaker input sensing.) But for whatever reason if I use the remote output lead it causes the amp to immediately go into protect... anyone heard of this before? It's not a massive deal, I can get a remote wire to the amp, just a bummer to have to tap into something else and add another wire. Full build log of box soon, along with a few more goodies; waiting to complete the install. Maybe next weekend.
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