campbelj5 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 I am newish to the car audio scene (know just enough to get me in trouble and second guess myself) and I am looking for advice for sub(s). The amp I am running is a DLS Ultimate A6 A/B with 1200w RMS @ 1ohm or 870w RMS @ 2ohm. I was running an Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" sub but the cone separated from the foam (pic included) and looks a bit thin so I do not think it can be refoamed. I found a replacement cone on ebay for $189.00 and it seems super simple to replace. I was wondering if that is my best option for the money or if I should look at other options. I did see the Soundstream R1.124 and have thought about running that at 2ohms, but I believe that the IDMAX was hooked up at 1ohm so this would be less power. It seemed to get good reviews and was less than the cone replacement. I was also given the suggestion to try American Bass The IDMAX hit pretty hard and sounded good and I don't want to take a step back. Also wouldn't two 400w or 500w subs hit harder than the one 850-1000w? Also, I do believe that the replacement cone for the IDMAX is still paper, wont I have the same issue later down the road. I am putting the system into a Ford Expedition so I have plenty of room. Appreciate any advice. The full setup is: Clarion DXZ945MP head unit 6 DLS tweeters (2 on the posts by the windshield 2 in the kick panels and 2 by the back window) 2 DLS 3" mids in the kick panel 4 MBQuart PWE160 6.5 (2 in the doors and 2 in the rear) 8 crossovers MBQuart RAA4200 4 Channel amp DLS Ultimate A6 IDMAX 12D2V3 (originally) 2 JL Audio 12's (currently, and unsure of model and ohms).
hoit Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 :WELCOME:welcome to the forum! I don't know much about those woofers at all...cant help there. in theory, two subs would give you more cone area and efficiency...but as far as "hit harder", im honestly not sure. maybe one of the experts will chime in! 2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan 2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm 2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank Singer 220 amp alt
sencheezy Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 welcome 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy
Joe X Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 The IDMAX is a SQ sub and likely not every sub out there can replace it, from what we normally use on here you could try Fi or Ascendant Audio brands, both are SQL subs, from Fi the Q series probably will be best for SQ but if you don't want to spend too much, the SSD series may be an option. Now I would like to add that you need to explain what went wrong with your sub, probably a bad box design or some other issue, the other thing that I am a bit surprised to read is that you don't know exactly what subs you are running?? or in what box?? You have very nice speakers my guess is that you need to be more careful with your sub stage. Welcome to the forum. Hope we can help you.
campbelj5 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Posted January 30, 2015 The IDMAX is a SQ sub and likely not every sub out there can replace it, from what we normally use on here you could try Fi or Ascendant Audio brands, both are SQL subs, from Fi the Q series probably will be best for SQ but if you don't want to spend too much, the SSD series may be an option. Now I would like to add that you need to explain what went wrong with your sub, probably a bad box design or some other issue, the other thing that I am a bit surprised to read is that you don't know exactly what subs you are running?? or in what box?? You have very nice speakers my guess is that you need to be more careful with your sub stage. Welcome to the forum. Hope we can help you. I am not sure what the JL's are because I had them laying around from a car I had years ago. They are also in a sealed enclosure custom made for the JL's. There are no identifying marks anywhere on the sub that so if it is a W0, W3,etc. The ohms rating is also not anywhere on the sub. Also not sure what happened to the IDMAX. All this equipment was in the car when I bought it at auction. The sub ripped shortly after I bought the car. I had one local audio dealer tell me that it ripped because of moisture and this makes sense...since posting this I pulled the cone and the pole piece is rusty. Is this sub fixable now or just trash?
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.