db_speakerbox Posted February 4, 2015 Report Posted February 4, 2015 Looks awesome. Would like to know how in the hell you got that bish in there lol. Also, how do you get to the amps on the side of the wall? Is there more room than there looks?
Cruze2 Posted February 5, 2015 Report Posted February 5, 2015 Build looks great! Nice equipment, I am tuned in! 2012 Chevrolet Cruze
KTMrida4life Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks everyone! Cool to actually get input from people besides on facebook. i think i bought batteries from you a few yrs ago on a diff forum?? Anyway... the wall is looking STOUT! Yes you did, on CACO I remember you had the 3000gt haha, thank you zrkie, on 04 Feb 2015 - 09:54 AM, said: Love the batterybox and the way u've hidden away amps on the sides. Particularly the amp-racks. Will definitely keep that in mind for future use. On the 'boring note', I recon the cable management this far is not up to par with the great ideas of amp rack, battery box and a killer woofer box. The good news is, it is ez fix once u get to it Yeah, cable management in places needs some work. I plan on getting the wires in the box zip tied together better and secured to the top/back of the box, just trying to figure out the least noticeable clips to use to do it. Looks awesome. Would like to know how in the hell you got that bish in there lol. Also, how do you get to the amps on the side of the wall? Is there more room than there looks? The box was a VERY tight fit. It actually didn't fit first go round. Literally it was the exact height of the hole it was going into. To fit it, I had to remove my rear cargo trim (and put them back in once box is in, thankfully no screws) remove the lift gate latch post, remove a piece of metal trim in the back and hammer in the corners about 1/4". The opening in the center was big enough, but its not perfectly square and it was being pinched in the corners. Also had to cut out where my rear seat used to bolt to, I didn't realize it was in the way until the box went in. The amps are screwed to a piece of carpeted 3/4" wood that has holes drilled in it for 1/4" lag bolts, and the holes for the 1/4" lag bolts are predrilled into the box. Actually had to pull the box in and out 2-3 times because the holes were not in the correct place. To get the amps in, box goes in first, then the board with the amps on it goes through the rear door sideways then rotates down and slides toward the back. It will NOT fit in through the back, I tried that haha. Once its in place, has to be held up then bolted into place. Only 4 bolts holding it but it wont go anywhere. For anyone wondering, YES, I actually did get this thing playing last Thursday night. I had to do some other work to the jeep which took a little bit (water pump went bad, freezeplug popped out) but I drove out and was going to starting testing and tuning things and I only got to play it about 45 seconds, probably only 5 of that with it full tilt, before a 3800 smoked up No reason behind it. Ive repaired that amp before last year when the outputs went, not sure what its deal was this time, but I sent it off to db-r to be fixed. Really hoping he doesnt take too long, because Im inpatient lol... If I had the cash Id just buy another and have a spare. Not a bad idea anyway. I think its gonna be pretty loud though. Port needs some tuning as Im tuned 3hz too high, and I *know* its too big, so theres some to gain there. Hoping for 60s on music
KTMrida4life Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Posted February 9, 2015 Cleaned up the wiring on the top subs and got the RGB leds in. Still gotta do the bottom. Currently working on replacing all 20 wheel studs with longer ones (what fun by hand..) and saving for a set of new tires and an alignment. Looking like Im getting Michelins LTX MS/2s , 235/75/15s which is a size or two bigger than stock. Tempted to get bigger...
mecaman86 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Posted February 9, 2015 hey i am interested in that alt bracket that you made do you have pix without alts on it
KTMrida4life Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Posted March 6, 2015 I didn't update this... Brought the port down to 360sqinches from 390 and got the amp from db-r and got it in, and took it for a drive. It was pretty freaking loud, I had both windows down and didn't try it sealed up, or window up and opposite door open, or even play anything around where its peaking. Played a few songs that were in the low 40s and 30ish and it was destroying everything. Way more musical than I imagined it would be.... and then 2 amps started going in and out of protect. Same shit that happened to my old build last september and the reason I pulled everything out. One was a brand new one, one was one of the original 2 that did this. Instead of trying to explain... Amp 1-First 3800 I bought, no issues (that I'm aware of) Amp 2-Second 3800 I bought, no issues (that I'm aware of) Amp 3-Third 3800 I bought, this one I had my subs wired wrong once and blew the outputs. Fixed it, then later it started doing the blue light/red light thing. Amp 4-Fourth 3800 I bought, been great until it started doing the blue/light red light thing with Amp 3 back in September. Amp 5-Brand new Amp 6-Brand new Both Amp 3 and Amp 4 sat in my room since September , hooked them up in January to test them and they worked great?? Threw them in the build, and Amp 3 blew up. That's the one db-r just repaired, completely failed, power supply and outputs. Got it back together, and now Amp 4, along with Amp 5, are doing the red light/blue light thing, nothing is blown, just some small transistors/resistors are fried on the output board in the protect circuit. Sent them both to db-r and now just waiting again
n8ball2013 Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 How are you wiring them? Strapping or using passthroughs for Rcas? Or y splitters to each amp THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Karkov Posted March 6, 2015 Report Posted March 6, 2015 Interesting if you figure out why these problems are occurring. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
Leepersc Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 Damn bro! You've put in work! Not only on the install, but the work fixing sheet metal etc. Gotta say, I probably would have moved on from those 3800's after about amp 3 or 4! Tons of other brands that are too appealing without the issues you have been through IMO. Good luck bro! Keep up the hard work. Definately following this build.
n8ball2013 Posted March 7, 2015 Report Posted March 7, 2015 If he can't figure out why any other amps may have the same issue THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.