Natasha O'Donnell Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 Usual disclaimer, I post via my girlfriend's FB login. Any way, iv been putting off my latest build because I have been having power issues. I have a 98 GMC Sierra. Running no more than 1500w RMS, between a Rockford T10001bd and JL 450/4. 0 gauge big 3 0 gauge front to back 270a mechman 810cca Duralast battery Still getting bad voltage dips, as low as 12.1, even at a 1800-2000 rpm. Iv spent so much money on new wiring and now this alternator to get my power source squared away before my new build gets underway, but obviously theres still problems. Reason im positive something is wrong is: had a friend pull his car side by side with mine, ran a length of speaker wire to his car to his amp (also 1000w bass amp, Jl 1000/1) and my woofer was CLEARLY seeing more power. Sad thing is, hes rockin stock battery, alt, and 4 gauge in a little Subaru. Whats going on? My grounds can't get much better. I have both amp grounds bolted into a ground block with all paint shaved off underneath, and went the extra mile, and ran two 4 gauge leads from the bolts holding down that block from under the floor pan, directly to the frame rail underneath my truck. Only thing I can think of now is a defective amp. I really shouldn't NEED a second battery on top of a 270 amp mechman for just a weak 1500w RMS, do I? ?? Please, tips, advice, slander, whatever: gimme it. Thanks
Kyblack76 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 edit- SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
moredbs Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 how good is your belt wrap. did you go smaller on the belt ,when you added the mechman?
Natasha O'Donnell Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Posted February 6, 2015 how good is your belt wrap. did you go smaller on the belt ,when you added the mechman?Ya know, i didn't add a new belt. The tensioner markings are right about where they should be. I could grab like, a 1/4 inch smaller. I did think of that.But i doubt that would be the all and all problem solver. If I was seeing these drops at idle only, I could see it being a bigger issue. Just don't get how my buddies JL was pushing more power to my woofer when his electrical is probably, i dont know, twice to three times smaller then mine. I did get this alt used, but from a trusted person. Iv always felt my woofer has been underpowered via the T1000. Definitely sounds more like 5, 600 watts rather then the 1000w+ RMS their known to push at 1Ω. Maybe im looking at it wrong, but i thought if that was the case, the alternator should be the culprit. I had to what I believe to be original alt (150k miles) prior to this swap. But no improvement
Silverado297 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 Sounds like you either have a bad ground or most likely a bad battery
moredbs Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 The belt wrap is very important to get that alt spinning fast. when i first hooked mine up my voltage was worse. its pretty easy to check and fix. you could also check your batteries.
Natasha O'Donnell Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Posted February 6, 2015 Sounds like you either have a bad ground or most likely a bad battery Thanks for the reply. I happen to work in the automotive field. Test my battery frequently, its practically brand new. And on grounds: yes, have heard grounding to the floor sheet metal isn't the best because that metal is just spot welded to the frame. Which is why i added leads from the bolts holding down the ground block, about 6 inches under the truck to the frame rail (quarter inch thick steel) , which was also ground down with an electric die grinder and secured with a self drilling bolt, and ring terminal/washer combo.
n8ball2013 Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 How about your other grounds in the truck not just your amp grounds THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
pa-pa-platypus Posted February 6, 2015 Report Posted February 6, 2015 first place i'd start is load test the battery This isn't teeball. YOU DO NOT GET A TROPHY JUST BECAUSE YOU SHOW UP. Put the work in and then maybe get the respect when it has been earned 151.6 with single 12 at 41 hz 153.2 with 2 12's at 43 hz power: dd m4
Natasha O'Donnell Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Posted February 6, 2015 How about your other grounds in the truck not just your amp grounds Big 3 was done with high qual OFC 0 gauge. Actually a big 4. Ground from Battery to the frame rail Ground from battery to body Ground from alternator bracket (engine ground) to the same bolt as battery ground on frame rail Fused alternator charge wire Same fool proof method of die grinding down the areas with super coarse grit automotive disks until bright shiny metal. And yes, I just supplemented these cables, all factory wiring still there.
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