Financial Mistake--Team Droppin' Hz--'10 Taurus Trunk Wall--Oval box COMPLETED--Video added (5/30/16)--DC Audio, PRV, Crescendo

[sebringR/T]

So its done...

All I can say is nothing went right yesterday. NOTHING. It took me about 5 hours longer than it should have taken me to get everything in and playing. It was just one thing after another. But none the less, it's in.

Sorry for the dusty pictures. Car was cleaned today and then naturally it pissed rain literally RIGHT as I finished up.

MY FAVORITE PART...

I will have 1/0 inputs for all the power/ground wires and then I will be running a set of dual 8g to 4g inputs as well. I will be ordering some of the digi camo before Slam and the crossbars on the amp will be getting wrapped. We have already pin pointed a few things we are going to change before Slam.

Worth it? lol Looks great man! love the 100 bills thing, haha

Worth it? No not really. Really let down by the score. My original thoughts were right. I was expecting 145-147. My buddy Trent said it should be capable of 150. High run of the day was 146.0 at 45hz. Only clamping 2-2500w outta that TS 3.5k. I don't know whats going on, but I'm not clamping crap, outta either build.

Really let down. And I mean really.

[jbeez]

What kind of voltage are you seeing at the amplifier power input terminals during your 2500watt clamps?

[diegoclass2010]

What are you ohm load are you wired at?

[sebringR/T]

What kind of voltage are you seeing at the amplifier power input terminals during your 2500watt clamps?

Truthfully, and I know its terrible. I don't know. I don't have a volt meter... Don't judge me. lol

What are you ohm load are you wired at?

Wired at .5 ohm.

[sebringR/T]

Here's a quick video for those who were interested...

[jbeez]

DMM is cheap, amps aren't(relatively speaking). Also that amp is rated for 1ohm mono not .5, if you're pushing it with .5 and also undervolting it thats not great. You may just need a few minor electrical tweaks to increase your amp's output. I didn't search through this whole thread, but did you post your electrical hookups?

when you ran your big 3 wires, did you fish any of them through the factory ammeters? it tells the ecu that you need more voltage out of the alt and it kicks it up, otherwise it thinks everything is A-OK and commands less voltage as well

[sebringR/T]

DMM is cheap, amps aren't(relatively speaking). Also that amp is rated for 1ohm mono not .5, if you're pushing it with .5 and also undervolting it thats not great. You may just need a few minor electrical tweaks to increase your amp's output. I didn't search through this whole thread, but did you post your electrical hookups?

when you ran your big 3 wires, did you fish any of them through the factory ammeters? it tells the ecu that you need more voltage out of the alt and it kicks it up, otherwise it thinks everything is A-OK and commands less voltage as well

I completely get what you are saying. I need to redo my big 3. It's currently all CCA and I've switched to OFC, but I don't know what you are talking about with the "factory ammeters". Not sure where I would find them/ it.

[3vil]

Some newer cars have a clamp ring thing that the factory ground runs through. This tells the ECU how much draw is currently on the electrical system and how much power is need from the alt. If your car had this and you bypass it during the big 3 then the car thinks that there is a big problem and it cuts the alt output way back.

[jbeez]

On my taurus, one clamp is on the negative battery leads, I was able to squeeze a KNU 0 through it but I had to crimp the ring lug on after it went through the ring. I ran it from neg battery terminal, through that ammeter, then terminated it to the fender right there, its maybe 18" of cable. The + ammeter is right near the alternator. You can snake your alt cable through it if theres room. If not, you could do something like 4awg off the alt(factory alt only does like 175A max at best) to a small fuse, then 0 from the other side of the fuse to the battery, or just continue with 4. The 4awg cable should be sufficient to carry <200a across the engine bay to the battery.

Here is a pic of the negative one, without my wire through it yet.

https://goo.gl/photos/4ex3Z45ACwrwWwNSA

Ford did this to dial back the accessories load and save fuel. no need to have the alt slamming voltage out constantly at full capacity if its not needed. Poses some new issues for people that actually like to change things in their vehicles.

[sebringR/T]

On my taurus, one clamp is on the negative battery leads, I was able to squeeze a KNU 0 through it but I had to crimp the ring lug on after it went through the ring. I ran it from neg battery terminal, through that ammeter, then terminated it to the fender right there, its maybe 18" of cable. The + ammeter is right near the alternator. You can snake your alt cable through it if theres room. If not, you could do something like 4awg off the alt(factory alt only does like 175A max at best) to a small fuse, then 0 from the other side of the fuse to the battery, or just continue with 4. The 4awg cable should be sufficient to carry <200a across the engine bay to the battery.

Here is a pic of the negative one, without my wire through it yet.

https://goo.gl/photos/4ex3Z45ACwrwWwNSA

Ford did this to dial back the accessories load and save fuel. no need to have the alt slamming voltage out constantly at full capacity if its not needed. Poses some new issues for people that actually like to change things in their vehicles.

Huge thanks for the picture. Would have never found it. I'm gonna have to look further into it. Probably gonna have to invest in a few feet of 4 or 2g to get this done correctly because I knew nothing about the ammeter. Might help. Things out a little bit.