arcwcb Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 So, I just wrapped up my install, and I've got a slight "whine" from the mids and highs. I've ran 1/0 and grounded the amps directly to the battery, I've upgraded the battery-to-chasis ground to 1/0, the RCA's are ran down the passenger side, power/ground on the drivers side. With the truck not running, it sounds great, really clear and no whine. I can't turn it down and it is dead silent. It only happens when the truck runs. I've put Stinger loop isolators on and it's still there. Anybody have any ideas what's causing this or what I should check next? I'm hoping it's not the alternator inducing noise because it's failing... 2006 Mustang GT Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods:Too many to list... 2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods: Coming Soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Did you do the big 3? Specifically, did you ground the alt case to the chassis on the same side as the battery ground? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Did you try ground your rca's together befor getting the loop isolator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcwcb Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Did you do the big 3? Specifically, did you ground the alt case to the chassis on the same side as the battery ground? I did the battery to chassis, I haven't done the alt power or the engine to chasis. I'm assuming the alt doesn't have a dedicated case ground and just shares a common ground with the motor I haven't looked though... 2006 Mustang GT Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods:Too many to list... 2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods: Coming Soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcwcb Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Did you try ground your rca's together befor getting the loop isolator? What do you mean by grounding them together? Like soldering a bonding wire between all of the RCA grounds? I haven't done anything further with the RCA's since the problem only exists when the truck runs. I sort of ruled the RCA's out as the problem, but that may be a good thing to try before diving in, thinking it's a charging problem. 2006 Mustang GT Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods:Too many to list... 2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods: Coming Soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Did you try ground your rca's together befor getting the loop isolator? If this was the cause it would do it all the time not just with the engine running. Why he is playing with the engine off is another issue altogether. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Just unplug the rca's from the amp, turn the car on and see if the noise is gone. or better yet, unplug one of the rca's and see if the noise goes. is the whine through all speakers or only one side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Did you do the big 3? Specifically, did you ground the alt case to the chassis on the same side as the battery ground? I did the battery to chassis, I haven't done the alt power or the engine to chasis. I'm assuming the alt doesn't have a dedicated case ground and just shares a common ground with the motor I haven't looked though... Do some homework on why we do the big 3. The goal is to make the most efficient return path to the alternator. Trust me, I promise you this is good advice, give your alt a dedicated ground run to the frame. Don't just ground the engine and call it good because there is conductivity between the engine and the alt case. Up front you should have a common place on the frame to ground your alt and battery to. In the rear, ground your amps and batteries to a solid location on the frame on the SAME side that you grounded the stuff up front i.e. passengers or drivers side. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 ^^^^^x2. Get the big 3 done and absolutely make sure you ground the alt case to the frame. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcwcb Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Did you try ground your rca's together befor getting the loop isolator? If this was the cause it would do it all the time not just with the engine running. Why he is playing with the engine off is another issue altogether. Why is it an issue to play with the engine off? I'm not running 10kw on one battery, it's a relatively low powered system. I demo my Mustang all the time without the engine running because I have the batteries to support the power. Did you do the big 3? Specifically, did you ground the alt case to the chassis on the same side as the battery ground? I did the battery to chassis, I haven't done the alt power or the engine to chasis. I'm assuming the alt doesn't have a dedicated case ground and just shares a common ground with the motor I haven't looked though... Do some homework on why we do the big 3. The goal is to make the most efficient return path to the alternator. Trust me, I promise you this is good advice, give your alt a dedicated ground run to the frame. Don't just ground the engine and call it good because there is conductivity between the engine and the alt case. Up front you should have a common place on the frame to ground your alt and battery to. In the rear, ground your amps and batteries to a solid location on the frame on the SAME side that you grounded the stuff up front i.e. passengers or drivers side. I have done my homework on why the big 3 works, it's an extremely simple principal that doesn't require much more than common sense, and I plan on doing it. And I'm not running a second battery or anything crazy. I'm running one sub amp and one small 4channel, common ground, and it's grounded back to the battery (all 1/0) not to the chassis. To me, this is the cause of where the noise comes from, the extra resistance from the engine/alt ground to battery, going through the chassis. And there is no place on a stock alt to run a dedicated ground, and I'm not going to drill and tap in to the case. It's bolted to the engine, no plastic brackets, so sharing a common ground with the engine is not a big issue with this small amount of power. I'm thinking maybe a bonding wire between these two points, just to eliminate the difference in potential. Thoughts? 2006 Mustang GT Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods:Too many to list... 2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack Performance Mods: Coming Soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.