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Alt Whine - Can't Find The Source!


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have you tried unplugging one set of rca's yet?

Yeah, I've unplugged, switch them around, about every combo I could think of. Nothing too telling, it stops when they are unplugged, but doesn't follow a certain cable.

Nevermind him, he means well but he is offering you no real help in this case.

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if you unplug the rca's from your sub amp does it still stop?

I didn't do anything with the sub RCA's, the whine was only in the mids and highs. Could a bad sub RCA cause enough feedback to induce noise in to the mids and highs?

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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The negative post on the battery is not ground.

I personally do both.

If the negative post is not considered ground, then what is on a vehicle? All paths need to lead back to that point.

When relying on alternator power, the negative post on the battery it's self is not ground. For electrons to flow in a circuit the negative post is part of the chain though when the battery is being used as reserve.

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I am very noob....

but he has not upgraded his factory alt ground in a way to introduce the noise, it is still factory.

and the whine occurs when he starts the car, not when he stresses the alternator.

some wires somewhere are touching that shouldnt be

No but he has introduced an increased demand which stresses his electrical without upgrading the return path. The positive run is just as important as the negative, but people overlook the importance of grounding the alt.

I completely agree with this, and it will be done. However, I haven't put any stress on the alt yet, I haven't turned it up except to a barely audible level. Any volume at all and the whine gets covered up by the music. Volume has to be really REALLY low to hear the whine. That's why I wondered about the alt ground, because I've never put an increased demand on it. It's also why I asked if the alt case ground being needed to kill noise is a sign of a failing alt and the alt putting an AC noise in to the positive line. Would a failing alt induce enough noise in to the positive side that an amp *could* pick up some noise from dirty power supply?

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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It could possibly be a failing alt but if you never had issues before I doubt that's what it is.

I have only had it hooked up a few hours, and I've only had the truck ~1 month, so I don't want to rule anything out. I guess it wouldn't hurt to load test it and see how it reads. You said you just use the case bolts as your grounding point?
You would want to test it for excessive ripple current.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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The negative post on the battery is not ground.

I personally do both.

If the negative post is not considered ground, then what is on a vehicle? All paths need to lead back to that point.

When relying on alternator power, the negative post on the battery it's self is not ground. For electrons to flow in a circuit the negative post is part of the chain though when the battery is being used as reserve.

Very true, that was a brain fart moment haha ok, so just from a theoretical point, would grounding the alt to the negative post on the battery create zero difference in potential, basically eliminating any noise, or would there be an adverse affect on the battery that I'm overlooking?

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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I am very noob....

but he has not upgraded his factory alt ground in a way to introduce the noise, it is still factory.

and the whine occurs when he starts the car, not when he stresses the alternator.

some wires somewhere are touching that shouldnt be

No but he has introduced an increased demand which stresses his electrical without upgrading the return path. The positive run is just as important as the negative, but people overlook the importance of grounding the alt.

I completely agree with this, and it will be done. However, I haven't put any stress on the alt yet, I haven't turned it up except to a barely audible level. Any volume at all and the whine gets covered up by the music. Volume has to be really REALLY low to hear the whine. That's why I wondered about the alt ground, because I've never put an increased demand on it. It's also why I asked if the alt case ground being needed to kill noise is a sign of a failing alt and the alt putting an AC noise in to the positive line. Would a failing alt induce enough noise in to the positive side that an amp *could* pick up some noise from dirty power supply?

You haven't introduced more then OEM demand on the alt?

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I am very noob....

but he has not upgraded his factory alt ground in a way to introduce the noise, it is still factory.

and the whine occurs when he starts the car, not when he stresses the alternator.

some wires somewhere are touching that shouldnt be

No but he has introduced an increased demand which stresses his electrical without upgrading the return path. The positive run is just as important as the negative, but people overlook the importance of grounding the alt.

I completely agree with this, and it will be done. However, I haven't put any stress on the alt yet, I haven't turned it up except to a barely audible level. Any volume at all and the whine gets covered up by the music. Volume has to be really REALLY low to hear the whine. That's why I wondered about the alt ground, because I've never put an increased demand on it. It's also why I asked if the alt case ground being needed to kill noise is a sign of a failing alt and the alt putting an AC noise in to the positive line. Would a failing alt induce enough noise in to the positive side that an amp *could* pick up some noise from dirty power supply?

You haven't introduced more then OEM demand on the alt?

I've introduce a POSSIBLE larger demand, but the volume has never been higher than barely audible, so the potential is there, I just haven't turned it up because I'm trying to fix this d@mn alt whine lol so the alt hasn't seen any higher amperage draw than what the factory system was capable of.

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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It could possibly be a failing alt but if you never had issues before I doubt that's what it is.

I have only had it hooked up a few hours, and I've only had the truck ~1 month, so I don't want to rule anything out. I guess it wouldn't hurt to load test it and see how it reads. You said you just use the case bolts as your grounding point?
You would want to test it for excessive ripple current.

By ripple current, do you mean an AC current on the DC line?

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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