RooTxBeeR Posted March 31, 2015 Report Posted March 31, 2015 Doing a build on my friends challenger. He's got a 5.7L hemi in it so there's not much room to work with in the bay. What are spots that I can, and can't use as a engine ground. I can't seem to find the stock one so I just want to add one into it. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Wicks Posted April 1, 2015 Report Posted April 1, 2015 Any mounting tab on the block should be fine. Ultimately the current sources from the alternator so the closer to it the better. Just make sure the alternator itself has a solid connection as well. This just an audio build or engine as well? For audio, you really don't need an engine ground, unless you are intentionally sending current through that path. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
RooTxBeeR Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Posted April 2, 2015 Any mounting tab on the block should be fine. Ultimately the current sources from the alternator so the closer to it the better. Just make sure the alternator itself has a solid connection as well. This just an audio build or engine as well? For audio, you really don't need an engine ground, unless you are intentionally sending current through that path. The engine is all stock, no plans on doing any engine work. I am just trying to do the big 3 and the battery is the trunk so just trying to figure things out. So I really wouldn't need a engine block ground? Was planning on 2 runs to the back from the alternator for alt +, doing the chasis ground to stock location in the trunk, and to find a engine block ground in the engine bay. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
n8ball2013 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Posted April 2, 2015 On my truck I used the alt tab for one side. Since I've got dual batteries under hood I used the ac compressor tab on the other. Short grounds are good grounds. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
RooTxBeeR Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Posted April 2, 2015 alternator mounting bolt. Copy that one, I guess I can leave the engine block ground until we replace the alt. On my truck I used the alt tab for one side. Since I've got dual batteries under hood I used the ac compressor tab on the other. Short grounds are good grounds. Well if I go with gunnem's suggestion, It would be very, very close. Thanks for the suggestions guys. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
n8ball2013 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Posted April 2, 2015 You don't need to replace the alt just pull a bolt out slap a lead on it and run it back in THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
RooTxBeeR Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Posted April 2, 2015 You don't need to replace the alt just pull a bolt out slap a lead on it and run it back in Well, this engine is fucking big, and replacing the alt or even adding the wire on will require a decent amount of removing shit just to be able to pull that wire off. When I tried to see the size of the bolt on the alt, I couldn't even get the cap off of it there so little room. We will need to replace the alt however. I am sure a stock alt won't like 300+ amp of pull on it. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Guest Posted April 2, 2015 Report Posted April 2, 2015 yea that engine does look like it takes up all the working room. you might have to take some hoses off to get a pair of vice grips down there can we get some pictures, maybe we can spot something for you.
RooTxBeeR Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Posted April 2, 2015 yea that engine does look like it takes up all the working room. you might have to take some hoses off to get a pair of vice grips down there can we get some pictures, maybe we can spot something for you. Yeah definitely. We are supposed to do some work Saturday so I will post something up for sure. Hopefully a few hoses is all that's needed, and not wheel, suspension, like my car lol edit: pretty much this On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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