Andrew Storlie Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 im working on designing and building a system around sound quality over SPL and im wondering if there is GENERAL rule of thumb when it comes to RMS power between sub stage and front stage... like: for every 10rms in front stage you should have 20rms in sub stage... something like that. so far im working at a set up that has 100rms per door (4 doors) and a single 500rms sub. anyone think that the sub will be drowned out or be perfect for a good bass best adding to the set up? EDIT: speakers are mezzo series from crescendo, 6.5 and tweet in each door. http://store.crescendoaudio.com/mezzo-series-6-5-reference-2-way/ the sub is a 12" dayton ultimax in a FLAT response ported box http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 powered by: alpine pdx-v9 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/ i see alot of people running alot more then 600rms to those subs, it is indeed a 2.5" coil with lots of venting, so im wondering if i should go with a single 4ch amp for the highs and a larger amp for the sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 so you want a comp set up front, and a set on the rear... with each door getting 100wrms.. with 500wrms to the sub? Just clarifying But if so, thats quite a bit. Worse case, the mids and highs can be turned down... but i dont see them having any issues "keeping up".. at all On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Yes, so ill have 400rms of door speakers and 500rms of subwoofer. just seeing if anyone thinks 500rms wont be enough to keep up with the doors, granted im not running pa speakers or mid bass... just normal comps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 I don't think the sub will keep up at all. My previous system was a dd 512 on 500 watts in a spl style box. I had agtermarket speakers all running off of the deck and the sub never once drowned out the mids /highs. Imo I would think 1000 watts to a sub would be a good place to start. But 400 watts just to mids and highs should be able to keep up with a 1500-2000 watt system with ease I would think Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebirdude Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 There is no rule of thumb like that because too many other variables would need to be taken into account. The rule would not account for enclosure design, subwoofer placement, number or size of subwoofers, etc. TBH, I think you'll find mostly bassheads on this board. Not to say there's no hardcore SQ guys on here, but it's like 50:1. So take their responses as such. Biamp the front and ensure you're using a solid processor/head unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted May 2, 2015 Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 I don't think 400w is to doors is SQ. But anyways. Look at steve's ISF. LOTS of power but still able to have great SQ. It's all in the install and how you put it to use. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 An inexpensive sound level meter on C weigting setting placed at the head rest and a tone sweep should give an idea on how to change your settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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