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Multiple Drivers or No?


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I'm wanting to put together a simple system to go in my extended cab truck, and initially I was planning on a single 10" Sundown in a ported box. I ran some ideas past my boss who's been building systems for quite some time, and he had some different ideas.

He does everything in multiples. 4 8" old school lanzers in an Acura, 4 8" behind the rear seat of his crew cab truck, etc. His reasoning was that with larger drivers, the distance it takes for waves to form full pressure would put the "sweet spot" outside the vehicle.

He suggested that I use 6+ woofers for 6", 4 for 8", and 2 for 10" to get the most "punch" out of a small cabin while maintaining sound quality. Anyone have suggestions on this?

Thanks

Jameson

Auto Enthusiast -- Mechanical Engineering Student

1999 Honda Accord EX. 100% stock driver. JVC KW-R910BT, Pioneer TS Speakers F/R, Sundown E10 v.3 ported, Kenwood X500-1

1976 F250, 300/NP435/NP205. All original Highboy. Project Truck

1988 F250, 7.3 IDI/ZF5/1345. 4" lift SOLD

1971 Baja Bug, 1600DP/Bus Trans. Currently in a million pieces SOLD

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All comes down to cone area. Sound quality just comes down to enclosure and what drivers you use. In the right box there is ZERO difference in 8s or 10s or 12s or 18s if the box is made right and cone area is equal.

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Was he suggesting you use 6", 8", and 10" all in the same install? That would be no bueno.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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No, those were just the different suggestions. Use 6" OR 8" OR 10", with different quantities for each.

Auto Enthusiast -- Mechanical Engineering Student

1999 Honda Accord EX. 100% stock driver. JVC KW-R910BT, Pioneer TS Speakers F/R, Sundown E10 v.3 ported, Kenwood X500-1

1976 F250, 300/NP435/NP205. All original Highboy. Project Truck

1988 F250, 7.3 IDI/ZF5/1345. 4" lift SOLD

1971 Baja Bug, 1600DP/Bus Trans. Currently in a million pieces SOLD

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All comes down to cone area. Sound quality just comes down to enclosure and what drivers you use. In the right box there is ZERO difference in 8s or 10s or 12s or 18s if the box is made right and cone area is equal.

Will it matter that I would be really close to the box? It would be right behind the front seat of my pickup, so I don't know if there would be enough time for the pressure to build inside the cab.

Auto Enthusiast -- Mechanical Engineering Student

1999 Honda Accord EX. 100% stock driver. JVC KW-R910BT, Pioneer TS Speakers F/R, Sundown E10 v.3 ported, Kenwood X500-1

1976 F250, 300/NP435/NP205. All original Highboy. Project Truck

1988 F250, 7.3 IDI/ZF5/1345. 4" lift SOLD

1971 Baja Bug, 1600DP/Bus Trans. Currently in a million pieces SOLD

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The subs I was building a box for is a Sundown E10. Those have an RMS of 300W, and I was building a slot ported box to fit it's volume and tuning needs.

If I were to run 300W to it in an appropriate box, will it be efficient enough to fill the cab with nice, strong bass?

Auto Enthusiast -- Mechanical Engineering Student

1999 Honda Accord EX. 100% stock driver. JVC KW-R910BT, Pioneer TS Speakers F/R, Sundown E10 v.3 ported, Kenwood X500-1

1976 F250, 300/NP435/NP205. All original Highboy. Project Truck

1988 F250, 7.3 IDI/ZF5/1345. 4" lift SOLD

1971 Baja Bug, 1600DP/Bus Trans. Currently in a million pieces SOLD

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