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Black Beauty Project Build - 06 Ford F-250 Super Duty **1/27/18 - New pics starting on page 41**


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Posted

I'm guessing it would hook up like a servo right? Where I can change the length and speed etc?

Also, I'd think I'd need this adapter right? http://www.firgelli.com/PQ12_Cable_Adapter_p/cable-adapter.htm

Then there's their controller. http://www.firgelli.com/LAC_Board_p/lac.htm

And they have a case for it. http://www.firgelli.com/product_p/case.htm

They also have a DPDT Switch for it. http://www.firgelli.com/product_p/dpdt_button_kit.htm

There's another $150. Hmm.

Posted

How about this with your arduino:

http://www.firgelli.com/PQ12_Micro_Linear_Actuator_s/1825.htm

Has limit switches so it can be set up to not burn out.

So your tablet mount has a flexible connection at that cord? In order for you to tilt it outwards like that?

I thought about that. I saw it and seems like it would be easy enough. But how would it work with a button?

My concern about the arduino, is when I get the 15's in there. I'm a little concerned with the amount of vibration it's going to endure. Not that I'm winning any DB records with 2 15's or anything, but I'm guessing there will be a significant amount of vibration going on.

As far as flexibility, no it's in a solid spot epoxied in. Basically there's just enough angle to get it over the lip of the frame, but not too much that it hangs up on the connector. it really is smooth plugging it in. I thought about some sort of swivel mount, for that purpose, but I couldn't really come up with anything that would work.

Write an arduino program that does the following:

When the button is pressed, move the actuator out.

Sense for the outer limit switch, when reached(fully out), stop movement and reverse.

Sense for the inner limit switch, when sensed stop movement.

Wait for another button press.

Lots of possibilities with limit switches.

I wish mine had limits because its easy to overdrive the actuator when I'm moving my rear seat too far up or down.

I'm actually more worried about the connection to the rear seat as that takes the most abuse. The actuator is fairly strong.

An arduino is all solid-state. Similar to any other electric device in your car.

It should be fine. If you're worried just make it accessible in case it needs replacing, they are cheap, as you mentioned.

Sorry I was posting as you wrote this.

I didn't know it was Solid state, or maybe I just didn't remember. But that makes sense. Yeah I'm going to most likely install the electronics part of this behind the glove box or somewhere like that. In order to access it if it was in the back of the tablet mount, I'd have to remove the whole dash. Doesn't sound like too much of a pain to some, but this one is particularly a pain in the ass!! I don't know why they didn't just make it two pieces. Would've made life MUCH easier, for me anyway. I'm already nervous enough about putting this in there without breaking it. It kind of has to twist a little to get in there.

Anyway, ok, I'll see about getting one and the adapter and see about getting it working.

Thanks.

Posted

Solid Solid Solid updates!!! I'm SOOOOOO jelly of you having the JM-1 ... I wanted it so bad!! but I would have to buy a whole new amp, which means more wires, rcas AND the processor .. I wasn't about that life then lmaoo ... and the box is coming along great man!! Good shit!!

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

Posted

Ok so, I picked up a nice little piece of equipment for my truck. The Edge Inishgt CTS 2 monitoring system. I also have the EAS system coming too with extra sensors etc to monitor other things.

20160309_070159.jpg

Of course you all know how my mind works, so as soon as I bought it I was trying to think of places to put it. I have a couple in mind but this was the first place that I thought of.

20160309_065933.jpg

This is, for those that don't know, where the headlight and dash dimming controls go. It is a very very close fit. Of course it's not exact, but that would be too easy. SO a little fabrication will be necessary to make it work. Not a bad time since I'm already working on the dash.

20160309_065939.jpg

HOWEVER, that being said, I'm not 100% sold on this unit. So I have a couple of other ideas that I need to find out some information on, before I decide to change it up.

My original thought was just to put it in the center console, I'm building a custom one for the sub recall. But I don't know that I want it there. I'm already going to have the volume meter there and I'm not sure I want that, and the CTS 2, and everything else there. I think it'll become way too busy. So my next thought is this. A little out there, but I'm contemplating putting in in the gauge area. How would I do that? Well I'm glad you asked!!

Off the top of my head, my first thought is to get the dash panel inserted in place. Then tape the center part off, and fiberglass a pan in place. Once that's done, I think I'd center it in the cluster area. I think it will fit in there perfectly. Now, I know everyone is probably asking, how will you keep track of everything? Speedometer will be covered, the fuel gauge will be covered, the glow plug light will be covered, and everything for that matter. Let me address that.

These are all the things I need to find out. My only hang up at the moment is the Fuel gauge. I believe, and again I have a lot of research to do, that the CTS 2 will do everything else that I would even need to look at the gauges for. Temp, trans temp, boost, etc. As far as the glow plug light, I wouldn't need because I can hear the chatter and the buzzing and everything and that's what I go off of anyway to start it. I wait until it's quiet before I even start it. Leaving me with the fuel gauge. I could incorporate an aftermarket fuel gauge, and then on the other side I could probably do an aftermarket volt meter or something. I don't want it to be uneven. If there's a gauge on one side I'd want one on the other to look uniform.

So that's what I'm thinking. I'll do some research and see if I can do it.

That's all I have for now. Hopefully I can get out to the shop tonight and get back to work on the enclosure. Looking more like things will have to wait until Friday night or over the weekend though. We'll see.

Posted

Not sure if you mentioned how you were planning to make your tablet popper (I guess you could call it lol) but I had an off the wall idea.

I think you said it only need to push it out a little bit so my not use a motor with a half moon cam key mounted on it and a momentary switch? So it will rotate when you hit the switch and push the tablet out to where you need it then you would push it again to rotate it back around so the tablet can sit flush.

Like this: oem_4g63_crankshaft_key.jpg

Not sure something will be coming through back plate in your design but it was a random thought i had. You would put the mounting hole center bottom towards the flat side of the cam.

This is a vibrator but sort of the same concept:

Vibrating-motor.jpg

New build coming........

YouTube:http://www.youtube.c...6?feature=guide


Old Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d-on-the-cheap/

Old Screen name: Redrebel66

Posted

That's not a bad idea really.

My plan was to have a micro actuator, I think we posted a link previously in the last page or two. It would have a 1 1/2" or 2" extension. Build a bracket so it's straight behind the left side of the tablet, right side is where the connector is. Then when it extends it'll extend straight out, and straight in when back of course.

That is a good idea though. I'm sure I could make something like that Half Moon Piece and I have a motor in my Arduino Kit. Maybe I'll have to try something with that this weekend.

The tablet really only needs to lift up about a half inch on the left side. The pocket thickness is about 1/4", and then another 1/4" would be perfect to get my fingers behind it and pull it off of the connector.

Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it.

Posted

You doing great work. Love watching the progress.

Thank you.

The weekend didn't go as planned. I had plans of getting the enclosure done, and working on the tablet some more. My nephew was in on Leave so we had a party at my sister in laws out of town. My mother in law fell and broke her hand on the way in the door, so instead of being home around 2 or 3, we ended up at home at midnight. SO Saturday was shot, my kids had Soccer on Sunday mid day, and with Laundry, Grocery shopping, Kids packing for Hawaii (they're going on spring break with my parents), I just gave in and said eff it!

On top of that, with the amount of rain we've gotten, my shop is now flooded. It's a shitty drainage issue that the previous owners didn't think about when they did the shop. I need to either dig out a trench and divert the water , which would take it below grade, but then I'd have issues getting it out since it would be below grade. Meaning I'd have to trench about 60+ feet down to the driveway. Not a small project. Or, I'd have to build a small concrete retaining wall around the outside of the shop, but that wouldn't even guarantee it would stop it, because the ground water would probably seep through between the foundation and retaining wall. It's an issue.

SO I was a bit defeated this weekend. I'm going to try and get back on it this week. I've decided to finish up the dash the way it is right now. I need to put in a pair of buttons on the right side of the tablet, one for power to the system, and one for the eject when I do it. Then I'll need to finish up the metal back on the tablet pocket. Body work it. Then do some priming and sanding, add the magnets to the tablet, and finally I'm going to flock the back and sides of the pocket instead of suede. I think it'll look better.

At the very least, I'll have this in a finished state and everything else will be an addition after that.

Posted

Ok so, I really bounced around between the Sub Enclosure and the Dash Panel last night.

Let's get started. Last I left off, I had put filler on the enclosure with the plan of getting it sanded right away. However, that didn't happen. But let's do it now.

20160314_191303.jpg

To do this, I decided I'd use my orbital sander. But I didn't want the dust everywhere, so I decided to hook up my vacuum to it. Helped a lot!!

20160314_191306.jpg

Got it all sanded down.

20160314_191817.jpg

20160314_191820.jpg

Then I had to deal with the back side. This was the only side that didn't get filler the other night. So I'll do it now.

20160314_191834.jpg

20160314_193323.jpg

Then I decided while that dried, I'd work on the dash panel a bit.

Decided that it was time to epoxy the metal back to the pocket.

20160314_193333.jpg

20160314_193336.jpg

Using a body filler spreader, I spread the epoxy all over the back of the pocket.

20160314_193630.jpg

Then set the metal in place.

20160314_193655.jpg

To hold it down I just used a few of the cans of paint I had right there. Didn't take much.

20160314_194321.jpg

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