Loudest SPL/SQL sealed set up

[Inetba]

While a sealed box could handle more power, it sounds like his car's electrical cannot, hence the 1,500 watt limit. If he didnt have a wattage limit I would recommend a DDZ12 and 20k watts and be done with it. At that point you roll a window down and turn your entire car into a 4th order box.

Like he said though, with a sealed enclosure it's pretty even among most frequencies although the low low 20hz area would more than likely suffer due to the box size constraints. But with a ported box it'll be loud loud Loud Loud LOUD AS HELL Loud Loud loud loud as you go through the frequencies. You go through the frequencies one by one and you can EASILY tell the frequency it peaks at. It's the difference between a baseball bat and a sledgehammer to the back of the head.

[akuma4u]

Thanks for the response guys.. OK from what you have said i have some questions, and please pardon my n00bness - im at the learning stage so bare with me.

1) So i know that with a ported box it will be extremely loud at and around the tuning frequency. So lets say for example I tune the box to 36hz, it will be loudest at 36hz and then whats the range for the other frequencies? like 30-35 and 37-42 will also be very loud and then everything above 42 and below 30 will start to get significantly softer to the point where i can def notice it by ear? or is it more like everything above 38hz will be softer and below 34hz will be softer significantly? OR is there only a very little decrease in db under and above the boxes tuning frequency?

2) I listen to mostly all electronic music, dnb, trance, breakbeats, etc.. and hardly any rap. Years ago i was part of another forum and i met up with a bunch of guys from it and i listened to their sundown systems and they were all playing rap and it sounded insane in their ported set ups. i brought a cd along and put it in to demo and my music sounded like SHIT. no bass at all its like they just yanked the wire out of their amp and just the components were playing. So.. im assuming the box wasnt tuned for the frequency that most electronic music plays at, it was more tuned for rap.. so anyone know what a good tuning frequency is for electronic music? so i get the most out of my box for the type of music im listening to?

3) will a ported box be able to play fast punchy tight bass? i know sealed can, and thats one of the reasons i kept loyal to them as i was told sealed is always better for tight fast bass and ported is better for long lower basslines.. but im starting to think thats a myth?

4) the way my trunk is designed i can only have a box in there with the sub facing UP. So would the port also be facing up as well or should the port be facing the rear? or should i have the port facing into the car ? which way would create the most cabin gain? i have a genesis and that car is horrible for cabin gain.. only way to get bass is to have the seats down (see pics at bottom)

5) i know DD and sundown amps are great but the hifonics x1500.1d brutus i got, is it garbage ? should i invest in another or is the hifonics good enough? i was told hifonics amps are efficient, can play at 1 ohm and are true power and are the best bang for your buck amps u can get so i got it. so far so good , but then again maybe if i were to hook up a sundown or dd amp i would notice a big difference even if at the same rms of 1500?

here are some pics of my current set up so u can get an idea of my space constraints:

http://tinypic.com/r/2zoc4jr/8

http://tinypic.com/r/2rhlkhu/8

http://tinypic.com/r/sf8q4o/8

[bigsausagepizza]

I run 2 Sundown SA12's in a 2.8cube box after displacements. They are powered by a saz3500D and the box is tuned to 36hz with 2 4" aeroports. As it sits right now in my 2013 Scion TC I can do a 147+ on the dash all day long. The Genesis is a trunk car, yes? If so I wouldn't expect it to be as loud as that but I would give you my box design if you are interested in going that route. I am getting ready to do an upgrade on electrical and should get louder that way. I am considering changing the sub stage in the vehicle and if I were to do so I would just give you the enclosure if you wanted and you could see if you could make it fit and work in your car.

What size alt are you running for that saz3500D? Got a build log?

[bigsausagepizza]

1) The frequency response depends entirely on the enclosure. If you want a flat response you can do that, but you'll sacrifice peak spl to do it, and the box might get larger than you want. If you want a one-note wonder that's as loud as possible you can do that too. Generally, below tuning frequency the output rolls off at 12dB/octave, so you lose output pretty fast below tuning, but cabin gain can make up for that.

2) I don't know much about electronic music, but from your description it sounds like it gets really low, which would be why it didn't sound good on a system tuned for pop-rap. If you want those earthquake sorta lows you're probably going to want to tune in the 28-32 range depending on the sub and the space you have to work with.

3) A well designed ported box can be just as "tight" as a sealed box. Don't forget your midbass though, a lot of the attack from bass hits comes from midbass, not your subs.

4) I don't know a ton about port placement, but sub back port back is usually the standard for trunks. If you can't have the sub up I would imagine port back would be best, it would definitely help limit your trunk lid rattles. The best you could do would be if you could do sub and port forward and seal it off to the trunk opening (into the cabin). That would eliminate trunk rattles and give you a significant boost in volume.

5) I don't think you would notice a difference if you kept the same wattage. A while back somebody tested a hifonics against a soundquebed and I think the hifonics came out on top. Even if it's not the most efficient, a few hundred watts plus or minus won't make much of a difference unless you're competing for numbers.

[akuma4u]

1) The frequency response depends entirely on the enclosure. If you want a flat response you can do that, but you'll sacrifice peak spl to do it, and the box might get larger than you want. If you want a one-note wonder that's as loud as possible you can do that too. Generally, below tuning frequency the output rolls off at 12dB/octave, so you lose output pretty fast below tuning, but cabin gain can make up for that.

2) I don't know much about electronic music, but from your description it sounds like it gets really low, which would be why it didn't sound good on a system tuned for pop-rap. If you want those earthquake sorta lows you're probably going to want to tune in the 28-32 range depending on the sub and the space you have to work with.

3) A well designed ported box can be just as "tight" as a sealed box. Don't forget your midbass though, a lot of the attack from bass hits comes from midbass, not your subs.

4) I don't know a ton about port placement, but sub back port back is usually the standard for trunks. If you can't have the sub up I would imagine port back would be best, it would definitely help limit your trunk lid rattles. The best you could do would be if you could do sub and port forward and seal it off to the trunk opening (into the cabin). That would eliminate trunk rattles and give you a significant boost in volume.

5) I don't think you would notice a difference if you kept the same wattage. A while back somebody tested a hifonics against a soundquebed and I think the hifonics came out on top. Even if it's not the most efficient, a few hundred watts plus or minus won't make much of a difference unless you're competing for numbers.

[akuma4u]

1) The frequency response depends entirely on the enclosure. If you want a flat response you can do that, but you'll sacrifice peak spl to do it, and the box might get larger than you want. If you want a one-note wonder that's as loud as possible you can do that too. Generally, below tuning frequency the output rolls off at 12dB/octave, so you lose output pretty fast below tuning, but cabin gain can make up for that.

2) I don't know much about electronic music, but from your description it sounds like it gets really low, which would be why it didn't sound good on a system tuned for pop-rap. If you want those earthquake sorta lows you're probably going to want to tune in the 28-32 range depending on the sub and the space you have to work with.

3) A well designed ported box can be just as "tight" as a sealed box. Don't forget your midbass though, a lot of the attack from bass hits comes from midbass, not your subs.

4) I don't know a ton about port placement, but sub back port back is usually the standard for trunks. If you can't have the sub up I would imagine port back would be best, it would definitely help limit your trunk lid rattles. The best you could do would be if you could do sub and port forward and seal it off to the trunk opening (into the cabin). That would eliminate trunk rattles and give you a significant boost in volume.

5) I don't think you would notice a difference if you kept the same wattage. A while back somebody tested a hifonics against a soundquebed and I think the hifonics came out on top. Even if it's not the most efficient, a few hundred watts plus or minus won't make much of a difference unless you're competing for numbers.

ok so it rolls off below tuning frequency, what about above? same thing? and ya im looking for as flat as possible so i can play a wide variety of bass frequencies LOUD. But at the same time i got around a 2.25 cube limit so the box cant get too big. I guess this is where sealed boxes excel because they can maintain a small size while having a flat response with the exception of being able to play really low

hmmm.. i was thinking it was the other way around, i thought they all tuned their boxes really low and then i played something with bass in the 40s and it ended up sounding weak.

Theres no way i can have a 12 inch sub facing rear or towards me, it can only be facing UP. because the max height i can get into the trunk is 11inches. So i guess sub up port back would be best. ive deadened my whole lid and spray foamed it so ive taken care of the rattling.. that made a huge difference.

[Joe X]

Ported rolloff is 24 dB/Octave below tuning (less cabin gain).

[Joe X]

ok so it rolls off below tuning frequency, what about above? same thing? and ya im looking for as flat as possible so i can play a wide variety of bass frequencies LOUD. But at the same time i got around a 2.25 cube limit so the box cant get too big. I guess this is where sealed boxes excel because they can maintain a small size while having a flat response with the exception of being able to play really low

hmmm.. i was thinking it was the other way around, i thought they all tuned their boxes really low and then i played something with bass in the 40s and it ended up sounding weak.

Theres no way i can have a 12 inch sub facing rear or towards me, it can only be facing UP. because the max height i can get into the trunk is 11inches. So i guess sub up port back would be best. ive deadened my whole lid and spray foamed it so ive taken care of the rattling.. that made a huge difference.

If such is the case probably 2 10"s firing forward or back.

[Triticum Agricolam]

ok so it rolls off below tuning frequency, what about above? same thing? and ya im looking for as flat as possible so i can play a wide variety of bass frequencies LOUD. But at the same time i got around a 2.25 cube limit so the box cant get too big. I guess this is where sealed boxes excel because they can maintain a small size while having a flat response with the exception of being able to play really low

hmmm.. i was thinking it was the other way around, i thought they all tuned their boxes really low and then i played something with bass in the 40s and it ended up sounding weak.

Theres no way i can have a 12 inch sub facing rear or towards me, it can only be facing UP. because the max height i can get into the trunk is 11inches. So i guess sub up port back would be best. ive deadened my whole lid and spray foamed it so ive taken care of the rattling.. that made a huge difference.

With a properly designed ported box there is no roll off above tuning, at least not until you get to where the sub is going to roll off no matter what (like 200 Hz). Obviously not all ported boxes sound this way, but if that is what you want it certainly can be done.

Generally speaking, if you are looking for a smoother response curve you are going to want a smaller box that is lower tuned. You are also going to have to pick a sub that naturally has a flatter response, there are plenty to choose from.

[akuma4u]

ok so it rolls off below tuning frequency, what about above? same thing? and ya im looking for as flat as possible so i can play a wide variety of bass frequencies LOUD. But at the same time i got around a 2.25 cube limit so the box cant get too big. I guess this is where sealed boxes excel because they can maintain a small size while having a flat response with the exception of being able to play really low

hmmm.. i was thinking it was the other way around, i thought they all tuned their boxes really low and then i played something with bass in the 40s and it ended up sounding weak.

Theres no way i can have a 12 inch sub facing rear or towards me, it can only be facing UP. because the max height i can get into the trunk is 11inches. So i guess sub up port back would be best. ive deadened my whole lid and spray foamed it so ive taken care of the rattling.. that made a huge difference.

If such is the case probably 2 10"s firing forward or back.

yes 10s i can fit facing rear. Ive never used 10s, ive always stayed loyal to 12s.. is there a big difference going from 12s to 10s?