03silvergt Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 If you are okay with upgrading the subs then I would go for it. You have plenty of space for almost whatever you want. I used the 41wX19tX35d and its around 13 cubes. You could easily get a couple 15s in there. 2017 Chevrolet Silverado LT CC - Will be running 2-3 DC Audion M3 8s, unsure of amp, Mechman 320 amp alt. 2005 Ford F150 - Bagged on 24s, fully shaved, raised bed floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Depends on how much power you want to run, how loud you want to get, and how much money you want to throw at the project. IMHO a single 15" on 1200ish watts is a pretty good sweet spot in terms of what you get for what it costs and you shouldn't have to do any major electrical upgrades to your car. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulburner Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Depends on how much power you want to run, how loud you want to get, and how much money you want to throw at the project. IMHO a single 15" on 1200ish watts is a pretty good sweet spot in terms of what you get for what it costs and you shouldn't have to do any major electrical upgrades to your car. No set numbers would just like to play lows with some authority 30hz and under . Right now I'm using the SPL Gorilla 5500.1 / PA 5500.1 whatever you like to call it. I'm sure it only puts out 1100-1200 on a good day, probably less. I'll be grabbing another amp shortly just doing research for now but the DC 2k looks like a great amp for the price, but I'm keeping an eye out on eBay and craigslist. Looking to put around 300-400 into a woofer (cheaper the better but willing to spend a little more). I have some store credit on Sonic. Just trying to keep myself occupied and kind of play around with some different stuff until the end of the year. Ill be doing all the electrical upgrades and new wiring / assembling proper wood working tools until then. I was originally only planning 3K RMS, but if I can spread the cost a little doing electrical and dampening over the next couple months, then the cash I save not having to do the electrical and dampening right then Ill put into a better amp(s) I'd like to build my electrical for 5k and up to allow some upgrade room. But I'm still reading and trying to get a $ amount and everything required associated with wiring for 5k and up wattage. In my head I'm assuming atleast $1,000 in electrical and not sure on dampening at all. and I'm sure the electrical is probably more. Until then, not really looking for anything really serious. I've been looking around online and a few woofers that I've been considering for now. 1 18" RE SX 1 18" DC LVL 3 or 4 1 15" RE XXX 1 15" Skar Audio ZVX 1 15" Massive Audio SUMMO 1 15" AB HD 2 15" AB XFL 2 15" Alpine Type R or Type S 2 15" NVX VCW Reading all the TS parameters and googling their definitions and seeing people argue they don't mean anything and others argue they do. So I'm highly confused as far as that goes. I'm kind of iffy on Skar, I had the VVX 15" and I thought it sounded great, but it just randomly died. Had it on a Skar LP700.1. I thought the amp went into protect, but nope, was the sub just dying. Never had any rub or scratching noises, so I'm assuming it was a QC issues on that run of subs. About 15 years ago, I had an Alpine 12".. I don't remember what type it was. Bought it out of a Pawn Shop. Had a good ole Rockford 800a2 bridged on it, if memory serves me, that was a really good sounding sub. I have 0 experience with the others outside of reviews and videos. They have low end NVX 12's for 99 a set, Could put 6 in a 4th order for fun. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulburner Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Wow, I really messed that post up, part of my reply is in the quote.. oops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 So anyone who says T/S parameters don't matter might as well say how it sounds doesn't matter to them either. I care how things sound, so to me T/S parameters are important. Here are some of my thoughts on what you can do: 1. Decide what your end goal is, whether that is to run 5K of power on two 15"s or one 18" or whatever. Keep in mind that if you aren't competing your ear probably won't be able to tell a different between 3k of power and 5k, but your electrical system sure can. 2. Plan out how you want to get there, and make sure everything you do now won't conflict with your long term goal. For example, if you know you want to run two 15"s later, build a box for two 15" now that will work with the subs you want to get down the road and just use two cheaper 15"s in the meantime. 3. A single larger sub costs a lot less than two smaller subs. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulburner Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 So anyone who says T/S parameters don't matter might as well say how it sounds doesn't matter to them either. I care how things sound, so to me T/S parameters are important. Here are some of my thoughts on what you can do: 1. Decide what your end goal is, whether that is to run 5K of power on two 15"s or one 18" or whatever. Keep in mind that if you aren't competing your ear probably won't be able to tell a different between 3k of power and 5k, but your electrical system sure can. 2. Plan out how you want to get there, and make sure everything you do now won't conflict with your long term goal. For example, if you know you want to run two 15"s later, build a box for two 15" now that will work with the subs you want to get down the road and just use two cheaper 15"s in the meantime. 3. A single larger sub costs a lot less than two smaller subs. Thanks for the solid advice. I've been spending a lot of hours with WINISD graphing multiple subs with different sized enclosures. I was leaning toward your advice. Now just trying to find the right sub for what I want. I've learned a lot lurking these forums. Goals, I just want it hard to breathe, I got the 3K number by looking at multiple lines of subs x2 their rated RMS and seeing as most reviews saying they take more than rated I thought going to 5k to add some overhead would be the way I needed to go. I'm not looking for numbers or to impress anyone. Do I need to see what subs offer a higher gain on lower frequencies?. I'm assuming I'd want that and as much cone area as I can afford. If I'm going the wrong direction with this please let me know. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Yeah sounds like you are on the right track. If you want to get as loud as possible it comes down to figuring out the maximum amount of cone area your space will accommodate and then the maximum amount of power your wallet can handle. You want to figure out these two things before you start buying anything. So lets say you measured your space and you know you can fit two 15" subs, or four 12"s, or one 18" and you can afford 4000 watts worth of amps and electrical upgrades. Now you can start comparing subs and enclosure specs to see what will do the job the best and for the best price. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I will just add try to maximize cone area with larger diameter drivers first, less drivers, less cost, then maximize power. The lesser number of drivers the less amp power and electrical you will need, these also add cost to the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman619 Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 New stuff altogether You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman619 Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Do it You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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