Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Box design for RF T2D415


sTp

Recommended Posts

that's perfect my dad was adding the measurements from the previous drawings and things were not adding up but looks clear now.

also the vb is 3.1ft^3 does that measurement take into consideration of the sub and bracing volume? or do i need to add that.

Thanks again sTp.

Yes the driver displacement for your sub is 0.176 cubic feet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

box nearly complete just wondering what is the best way to connect the wires from the sub woofer to the box was thinking of using a terminal cup but seen bad reviews about them?

Thanks sTp.

I probably wouldn't use a terminal cup. The cheaper ones are known to leak and even the better ones can only handle so much power. You are probably going to be pushing the upper limit of how much power they should take.

Instead of a terminal cup you can just run the wires through the side of the box and then seal them up with silicone, or you could use some large binding posts, or bolts through the side of the box.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK triticum i like the look of those binding posts is this what you use on most of your builds the gauge of the wire i am using is 10 so will it work with them also might sound like a dumb question but how do you fit them and what ones would you recommend.

Thanks sTp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use lots of different things depending on the particular situation. For lower power stuff I like these terminal cups:

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-round-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-2-7-8-gold-spring-loaded--260-276

They don't leak and they are spring loaded which I prefer to the screw down type since the spring loaded ones don't come loose over time. These terminal cups are good up to about 600 watts per ohm in my opinion. You could probably use them at higher power than that if you took the nut off the back and wire to them directly with a ring terminal instead of a spade connector. There have larger sized ones too if you are interested:

https://www.parts-express.com/square-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-3-1-8-gold-spring-loaded--260-280

https://www.parts-express.com/square-speaker-wire-terminal-cup-4-gold-spring-loaded--260-279

For binding posts I like these:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bpa-38g-hd-binding-post-pair-gold--091-1245

They take up to 8 gauge wire. I'd also use a ring terminal with them for higher power applications.

For big power applications I usually use 1/4" aluminum bolts.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...