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Amp suggestions


MatthewBigBossWilliams

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Did you measure AC voltage through the RCA's to rule out your head unit? If good there, measure AC voltage from the amp sub outputs?

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You should still check input and output to completely eliminate other issues in my opinion. Even having done that, it may still be an operational amp...

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Sorry. That's my job though, if my comms equipment isn't operating correctly, you check your inputs. If you dont have good in, that narrows it down some. You have good in but bad out, that narrows it down some. You have good in and good out, it's operator error :P

I just figure it's easier to have confirmation of something bad, before buying something new and it not working either

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Sorry. That's my job though, if my comms equipment isn't operating correctly, you check your inputs. If you dont have good in, that narrows it down some. You have good in but bad out, that narrows it down some. You have good in and good out, it's operator error :P

I just figure it's easier to have confirmation of something bad, before buying something new and it not working either

I checked this morning and I am getting signal from the bass knob to the amp. Basically I am pretty sure that means the amp is done.

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ha, I live din Port Charlotte for years, wife grew up there. Good luck!

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Digital Designs DD915J

4.91 net birch box, inch port @ 33hz

FSD FZ2600

FSD FZ100.4

Pioneer DEH80PRS

PRV Audio 6MB200-4 6-1/2" Midbass Woofers

Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeters with Waveguide

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DC 2.0k

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
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  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
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    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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