Hunter Horton Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Hey guys whats up.. So I have a 02 Grand Prix trunk wall with 2 x12s or zv3 12s depending on what I am doing; on a Banda 5k 1ohm at 2ohm. I have the Big 3 done, Mechman 240 alt, 2 runs of 1/0 welding cable back to my Kinetic 3800 which rests at 14.2. 2 grounds in back coming from the strut tower bolts and they have been sanded so its bare metal everywhere it touches for best connection. dual inputs on for the banda aswell. Stock battery upfront. only running a single 150 amp breaker in one of the runs, the other power run is unfused currently. When I am in the Lanes or anywhere near full tilt while driving or trying to give demos I will get crazy voltage drop. Idles at 14.6 volts with gain down on my knob but will go down as low as 11.3 on music and test tones. Guessing it could be the 150 amp breaker holding it back but wouldnt think so. It has never popped on me. I have 2 svc 2ks on the way, 1 per sub so I just want to make sure my electrical is on point before installing them. I do not like that crazy drop at all and need to figure out why I am getting so much drop even wired at 2ohm and engine 2.5k RPM. Lights dim a pretty decent amount at night too. Is the Welder really just that power hungry or whats wrong with my wiring? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcfalcon Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I'm not an expert but this is my theory. I'm not going to bash Band but a true 5k amp will draw quite a bit of current. With only the stock batt up front and the 1 3800 in the rear then that amp will be pulling directly from alt also. I think you could probably use anot her batt or 2 in the back. But I'm a noob so please don't take my info and run. Still learning but have started gathering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daimer Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 This is deffinitely some serious drop! Are you sure you're not clipping the amp? And also, how can your kinetic rest at 14.2v?! My humble build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192602-corsa-b-daily-build-with-12-ground-zero-new-box-in/ Single Zv4 Rev.2 15" on a 10k amp: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201434-my-reviewtest-of-the-zv4-rev2-15/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carnines Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Your mechman isn't a hairpin so it's going to lose 30% efficiency when it gets hot... unless it's rated hot but for that I am not sure. You are drawing more current than your alternator can provide so you are going off your batteries. Your kinetic has 135 ah and your stock probably has very low amp hours..... You are drawing over 400 amps from just your amp on top of your vehicles electrical and im sure you have power going to your mids and highs so that is more draw. I'd say get the biggest battery you can fit under the hood and possibly add another in the rear. Good idea getting the sundowns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Upgrade underhood battery to biggest agm that will fit. I would add another kinetic 3800 to the back and see how your voltage is. Fuse that power run to back your just asking for trouble there. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 You'd be surprised at how much power you can draw from one battery, but in your case, it appears that you have other issues. If money is a problem, I'd say your first steps would be to replace your strut tower grounds with full length ground wire runs from the front. You could even try turning one of your + runs into a ground run just to benchmark your drop on one input, but only for testing. Don't push it too hard. The number 1 power/noise problem is a faulty ground. Also, get rid of the breaker and go with a fuse. The breaker is likely a bottle neck, and relying on a mechanical system for electrical safety is unreliable in this application. You aren't even fused on the other side, so there's no need for a breaker. Next, you need to dump the stock battery. It is the weakest link in your grid, so everything else is compensating. Doing these things will significantly improve your situation, but it won't fix it entirely. If anything, it will dramatically increase the useful life of your equipment. Ultimately, you need more storage after the weaknesses are addressed. Are you sure you didn't mean 13.2V? Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Horton Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 You'd be surprised at how much power you can draw from one battery, but in your case, it appears that you have other issues. If money is a problem, I'd say your first steps would be to replace your strut tower grounds with full length ground wire runs from the front. You could even try turning one of your + runs into a ground run just to benchmark your drop on one input, but only for testing. Don't push it too hard. The number 1 power/noise problem is a faulty ground. Also, get rid of the breaker and go with a fuse. The breaker is likely a bottle neck, and relying on a mechanical system for electrical safety is unreliable in this application. You aren't even fused on the other side, so there's no need for a breaker. Next, you need to dump the stock battery. It is the weakest link in your grid, so everything else is compensating. Doing these things will significantly improve your situation, but it won't fix it entirely. If anything, it will dramatically increase the useful life of your equipment. Ultimately, you need more storage after the weaknesses are addressed. Are you sure you didn't mean 13.2V? Right on man appreciate the info. We are changing grounds soon. I have a 2400 im going to make fit under the hood lol. Plan on getting 2 Northstar 220 and a intelli charger when money is right since I get a hella discount from the team Im on. Yes I meant 13.2 haha I was so tired I didnt even notice I put 14.2 lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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