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Hatchback Downfire


MyNameIsNoob

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Posted

2013 Hyundai Veloster and 1700 watts on a single 15" sub

(Was: Rear facing, port back and tuned to 31 Hz, built w the reccomended mfgr volume)

Would like to hear yalls thoughts on using a downfire, ported (to rear) box in a hatchback...

Pulled out my box and amp to make space when I made this a work car, but I can't stand the tameness much longer :D so I've made all the measurements and if I can keep the top of my box lower than 15.5" I can still have room to set things on top of it... so w a 15" sub that leaves downfire my only option without getting new equipment... Well any experiences I've had w downfire has left me unimpressed, but to be fair, they were all in cramped spaces or a bit underpowered imo... So I've been reading as much as I can on the subject, educating myself on the do's and don'ts, running specs thru calclators & formulas, but still not entirely excited ab it... Im ok w a slight loss in one aspect or aother if need be, but id like to hear ab some of the finer points in getting all I can get from it...

My plan (based on what ive read so far) is to replace carpet/cardboard cover on floor of hatch w some MDF to have a solid surface to load against

-not sure if it can be less than 3/8" and if its better to leave smooth vs rhinoliner?

Leave 1/4 to 1/3 of diameter space between floor and sub which is 3.75"

-not sure if or how the excursion will come into play w this measurement?

Space underneath for sound to escape should be at least 1.5 x the surface area of cone

-should the bass radiate forward and backwards or be channeled in 1 direction only?

Will there be a need to raise tuning frequency to get a bit more volume?

How similar is the wave loading to how it was facing the rear (Had ab 5" between sub and hatch)?

...Or is my paranoia getting vthe best of me? lol

THANX IN ADVANCE GUYS!!

Posted

If your reason for downfiring the sub is so it is protected, just fire it up and put a good waffle grill on it. You will use less space.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

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Posted

I can't do it, bc I gta set some pretty heavy things on top of the box... plus it sounded pretty weak when I originally installed it firing up

Posted

Sell the 15, get 2 10s. Build a small ported box with subs firing back at the hatch and the port also. 2 10s is damn near the equivalent in cone area and it's twice the amount of motor so there ya go. A ported box for a couple of 10s should take up minimal space.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Posted

Yea that's my second option, but tryna put the extra money toward my truck, so if I can help it ima use what I have... So you think downfire is a bad idea?

Posted

Anybody else wna share their experience w a downfire setup? I know there's alot of knowledgable folks here n id love to hear yalls opinion, Wisdom on the subject... Thx

Posted

i had 2 10" alpine type x subs in a single cab colorado that were subs down, port up. as long as you are very careful with clearances it works very well. i have no idea how it will sound in a hatchback tho, if you put the same box and sub in different vehicles not one of them will sound the same. all i can tell you is that from my personal experience in my setup it worked great.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thx man, was hoping more folks like you atually had some experience to share on the subject, but maybe not lol I'm jus gna try it n if it at least comes close to how it sounded w subs n ports facing the rear I can deal w it. It is primarily a work car afterall, but jus don't wna buy 10's if I don't gta. I like my beat down low n my single 15 does real good, so we will soon see!

Posted

No problem man, my only suggestion would be to make sure your sub is far enough off the floor to not touch at full excursion and maybe put some kind of mesh or screen around the gap at the bottom so nothing can slide under there and beat the cone up.

Posted

that's a good idea, been playin around w different ideas like that to try n cover all my bases, but I'm sure a few adjustments will be in order jus like any other enclosure to get it jus right... Read in a few other threads that it should have 1.5x the surface area of cone to allow the air to flow n also to be 1/4 to 1/3 of speaker diameter off the floor which is 3.75 - 5 inches for a 15 so I'm gna play w it a lil n see here it sounds best... If anybody has any other nuances or corrections to add I'm all ears tho!

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