andrewlicata1993 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Posted November 7, 2015 Well im open to ideas. I cant believe the amp will only push 800 rms at 1ohm tho. But im sure yall have the experience. I just need some help designing this thing.
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 7, 2015 Report Posted November 7, 2015 Well im open to ideas. I cant believe the amp will only push 800 rms at 1ohm tho. But im sure yall have the experience. I just need some help designing this thing. Yup, sadly certain car audio manufacturers have gotten into the habit of flat out lying about the stuff they make. An easy truth detector is to look at the fuse rating. Take the total amperage of the fuses (40 amp x 2 = 80 amps in your case) and multiply it by 10 and that is roughly about the most watts you are going to get, so for you thats 800 watts. Its not a perfect system and there are a few special exceptions, but it will get you in the ballpark at least. If your amp actually put out even 1200 watts RMS it would blow those fuses almost immediately. As much as those manufactures would like you to believe the laws of physics don't apply to then, they do. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
andrewlicata1993 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Posted November 7, 2015 Well i do appricate the leasson. And im a little dissapointed. Is there a tool that will actually read the power coming from the channle with diffrent resistances? And the amp did manage to melt my fuse under the hood. What size fuse block should i be using. This one says 100amp. fuse is melted but not poped lol...smh junk! upload image online
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 7, 2015 Report Posted November 7, 2015 An 80 amp fuse under the hood would be appropriate. Its hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like it melted where the wire connector goes in. I'd replace the whole thing. What size wire are you using? There are tools that can tell you just how much power your amp is putting out, they are not cheap though. A SMD AMM-1 will do it, but they are $400. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
andrewlicata1993 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Posted November 7, 2015 Its 4g and that is a 100amp fuse block. Maybe it layed against something and got hot. Its near my air box tho so im unsure. But what about this box design? Should i do a middle slotted port in between the 2 subs. Or a side port i mean my max specs are 30x30x16, and id like to hit 34hz. Im still in dis beliefe about this amp. Only 800watts! Out of the 1ohm 2000 it suposed to provide? Then again i guess better life on the speakers. They already hit pretty hard. But there tuned to high in the broken box that they are in.
Joe X Posted November 8, 2015 Report Posted November 8, 2015 The fuse likely failed out of a rather loose connection at the spot it melted, I don't think the 4 gauge is a problem for a 70A current draw.
andrewlicata1993 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Posted November 8, 2015 So after all that has been said. In reality I'm looking at. 800rms @ 1ohm to 2 12in kicker l7s rated for 1500rms between the two. I also need to insure a better connection with my new fuse block. My max specs are 30x30x16 ported. And I'm trying to achieve 34hz. Is this possible? And is this even a good route to go? The fuse likely failed out of a rather loose connection at the spot it melted, I don't think the 4 gauge is a problem for a 70A current draw.
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 8, 2015 Report Posted November 8, 2015 So after all that has been said. In reality I'm looking at. 800rms @ 1ohm to 2 12in kicker l7s rated for 1500rms between the two. I also need to insure a better connection with my new fuse block. My max specs are 30x30x16 ported. And I'm trying to achieve 34hz. Is this possible? And is this even a good route to go? Those dimensions should give you enough space to do what you want to do. Have you tried playing around with Torres? I know you might be a bit disappointed to learn your amp doesn't put out as much power as you thought, but what really matters is how happy you are with the sound you are getting. A new box can make a big difference in how it sounds. You can always build an improved box now and upgrade your amp later if you want. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
andrewlicata1993 Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Posted November 8, 2015 So after all that has been said. In reality I'm looking at. 800rms @ 1ohm to 2 12in kicker l7s rated for 1500rms between the two. I also need to insure a better connection with my new fuse block. My max specs are 30x30x16 ported. And I'm trying to achieve 34hz. Is this possible? And is this even a good route to go? Those dimensions should give you enough space to do what you want to do. Have you tried playing around with Torres? I know you might be a bit disappointed to learn your amp doesn't put out as much power as you thought, but what really matters is how happy you are with the sound you are getting. A new box can make a big difference in how it sounds. You can always build an improved box now and upgrade your amp later if you want. No i have it downloaded but dont understand it all yet. I did find this tho i believe joe x designed it. 35hz flush mount Sheet: (4 x = 32sqft = 4608sqin Front: (12 5/8 x 14 1/2) (x2) = 366.125sqin Back: (30 x 14 1/2) = 435sqin Left & right: (26 3/4 x 14 1/2) (*2) = 775.75sqin Top & bottom: (30 x 28 1/4) (*2) = 1695sqin Port: Front to back: 19 x 14 1/2 (*2) =551sqin = 3822.625sqin This is kind of how i jotted it down so i knew how much birch wood i would need.
firebirdude Posted November 8, 2015 Report Posted November 8, 2015 Just as a heads up, manufacturers overstate power wire too. That doesn't look like true 4 gauge at all. Loose connection or the wire was too small. Either will increase resistance/heat until failure.
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