r_sherrer29 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I am moving my amps to the back wall of my 2011 Silverado but am wondering how to mount them. I do not want to throw screws through the sheet metal if at all possible. I am currently thinking liquid nailing mdf to the rear wall then screwing amps to that. Thanks guys. 2011 Silverado Ext Cab Pioneer 6100NEX SkyHigh 1/0 XS Power Polk db521 coax in rear Skar 6.5 Components Sundown SAE1000-D Fosgate P600x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Get to work SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I think you misunderstood when he said wall. I'm guessing he means behind the rear seats in the cab (unless is standard cab). Gluing mdf would work, but will be a pain to remove if you ever change your mind. Can you make a metal rack and use existing bolts on the floor to secure the rack to the body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 We didn't misunderstand nothing. He misunderstood something coming here to a car audio forums talking about moving amps to the back wall. When audio enthusiasts hear the word wall, its instantly a vehicle that is walled off with a sub enclosure. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clownrock95 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 We didn't misunderstand nothing...... Well at least you can admit your mistakes lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_sherrer29 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 God those are sexy, but for now I am keeping 2/3s of the back seat. The other 3rd will be a box. I was going to mount 2-3 amps on back wall and processor. I like the metal rack idea but don't think there is enough room on the nnbs trucks. 2011 Silverado Ext Cab Pioneer 6100NEX SkyHigh 1/0 XS Power Polk db521 coax in rear Skar 6.5 Components Sundown SAE1000-D Fosgate P600x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FourRings Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I highly recommend using 3M panel bond to bond brackets to the cab wall and then screwing your amp rack or amps to that.Over the years I have used all kinds of epoxy,liquid nails etc etc for things like this and this is by far the best yet least invasive,strongest permanent discreet way I have found.There is nothing stronger and the metal will tear before the bonded area.I'll usually fab aluminum brackets and bond them to the wall and then screw my amp rack to the brackets.You can also use aluminum or steel box tubing,angle iron etc etc for mounting tabs/points if you dont have the means of bending 1/8th inch aluminum,though I prefer usually to use aluminum because you can bond it in the recessed areas in a cab wall and it'll be flush or close to flush with the carpet. If planned properly this is also a great way of mounting boxes and if you use steel you can weld nuts and bolts in place before bonding them,set your box in place and then bolt it in from the inside. Basically think of it like welding but no worry of burning paint and it works on joining dissimilar metals like aluminum to steel etc.Once you use it you'll find a thousand things to do with it.I use it for reinforcing panels like the roof with 1/8 and 1/4 inch aluminum before adding sound deadener.It really opens up options on cutting down flex while keeping a stock looking interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r_sherrer29 Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 I highly recommend using 3M panel bond to bond brackets to the cab wall and then screwing your amp rack or amps to that.Over the years I have used all kinds of epoxy,liquid nails etc etc for things like this and this is by far the best yet least invasive,strongest permanent discreet way I have found.There is nothing stronger and the metal will tear before the bonded area.I'll usually fab aluminum brackets and bond them to the wall and then screw my amp rack to the brackets.You can also use aluminum or steel box tubing,angle iron etc etc for mounting tabs/points if you dont have the means of bending 1/8th inch aluminum,though I prefer usually to use aluminum because you can bond it in the recessed areas in a cab wall and it'll be flush or close to flush with the carpet. If planned properly this is also a great way of mounting boxes and if you use steel you can weld nuts and bolts in place before bonding them,set your box in place and then bolt it in from the inside. Basically think of it like welding but no worry of burning paint and it works on joining dissimilar metals like aluminum to steel etc.Once you use it you'll find a thousand things to do with it.I use it for reinforcing panels like the roof with 1/8 and 1/4 inch aluminum before adding sound deadener.It really opens up options on cutting down flex while keeping a stock looking interior. I will have to take a look into it! There isn't much room back there so I am going to have to cut out some of the insulation to make room for the amps. I know people are putting them back there just makes me nervous about heat back there; has to be little air flow. 2011 Silverado Ext Cab Pioneer 6100NEX SkyHigh 1/0 XS Power Polk db521 coax in rear Skar 6.5 Components Sundown SAE1000-D Fosgate P600x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FourRings Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 The stuff is not cheap but if you want a strong mounting point without drilling holes I have not found a better solution.Eastwood sells a less exphensive one that I plan on trying in the future but I dont know if it is heat curable like the 3m I've used in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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