maademperor Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Okay, so I've got a probelm with a stripped bolt (the threads not the head). Its one of the 4 on my drivers side seat. I pulled the seats out to run wires and whatnot and somehow during the reinstall I managed to strip this one bolt. It turns freely in the socket and I cant back it out to save my life. I cant touch it from below the car to try and "push it" out and I cant get it to back out either. Any tools you guys can suggest that I might be able get ahold of to budge this thing? Since its not in tight, the seat shifts ever so slightly.... I'm actually starting to wonder if the actual hole it goes into is damaged to but I cant see anything with the bolt in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Have someone push up from the bottom as you take it out from the top? I guess that is too easy of a solution? -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maademperor Posted April 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Have someone push up from the bottom as you take it out from the top? I guess that is too easy of a solution? yeah, that was one of the first things I did, get on the ground and look for the bolt from underneath, but like I said, its not visible from underneath (I'd have to cut a hole in the metal of that area under the car to get to it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 yeah, that was one of the first things I did, get on the ground and look for the bolt from underneath, but like I said, its not visible from underneath (I'd have to cut a hole in the metal of that area under the car to get to it) Can you get a panel popper or anything under the head of the bolt? pry up then put your socket on it and take it out... only thing i can think. -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatorcity Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 so its stripped and you're just trying to pull it out...why not try a somewhat strong magnet if you have one laying around comic on tv: I got a concussion from playing t-ball when i was younger, we dont really have time to go into that! . . . . 15 seconds pass . . . . . my girl: no one pitches to you in t-ball, do they??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainman0978 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 (edited) more than likely you will have to cut the head of the bolt off and drill the bolt out ( try to use a bit just smaller than the bolts diameter) and then run a tap through the hole to clean out and rethread the hole. It is a pain in the ass, trust me. I broke the head off a bolt the other day from over tightening a small bolt with a wrench that was way to big for a 10mm. bolt. Could not feel the tension due to the leverage, had to get a left threaded bolt remover (kinda like a tap , also known as a easy -out ) to pull it out. But in your case you have some threads still holding the bolt in , and if you can't pry it out you will have to drill it out and re-tap it. If you can pry it out, you should still probably run a tap through it to repair the threads. I would recommend using a loc tite on the bolt when you do put the new bolt in. Use the loc-tite that is semi-permanent so that you can remove the bolt again later if need be... good luck man.... Edited April 15, 2008 by trainman0978 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue my upgrades and "build" thread. My Kulicki Box Build -Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars -Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash ) -JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi - Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box. -Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio -All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0, -270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum- -2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz. Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maademperor Posted April 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 (edited) more than likely you will have to cut the head of the bolt off and drill the bolt out ( try to use a bit just smaller than the bolts diameter) and then run a tap through the hole to clean out and rethread the hole. It is a pain in the ass, trust me. I broke the head off a bolt the other day from over tightening a small bolt with a wrench that was way to big for a 10mm. bolt. Could not feel the tension due to the leverage, had to get a left threaded bolt remover (kinda like a tap , also known as a easy -out ) to pull it out. But in your case you have some threads still holding the bolt in , and if you can't pry it out you will have to drill it out and re-tap it. If you can pry it out, you should still probably run a tap through it to repair the threads. I would recommend using a loc tite on the bolt when you do put the new bolt in. Use the loc-tite that is semi-permanent so that you can remove the bolt again later if need be... good luck man.... thanks, my buddy also said much the same (especially the pain in the ass part)...I'm hoping the threads on the bolt itself are my problem and I wont have to re-tap it.... Can you get a panel popper or anything under the head of the bolt? pry up then put your socket on it and take it out... only thing i can think. I tried getting a flat head screwdriver under there to do that but I'm afraid it was off level enough to prevent me from getting anywhere, I'll find a panel popper and see what that does too so its stripped and you're just trying to pull it out...why not try a somewhat strong magnet if you have one laying around lol, I thought of that over the winter but didnt have a magnet and figured I'd ask if there was something else anyone could suggest before I spent money/time finding a magnet Edited April 15, 2008 by maademperor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reinke Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 use a air hammer. if it wont move then just forget about it ----reference's---- meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron813 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 (edited) Plasma cutter problem solved or use a cutting torch then just rettap the threads bigger Edited April 15, 2008 by Aaron813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maademperor Posted April 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 dont know how to use a plasma cutter or air hammer (although the latter sounds simple enough). are these tools I could rent at home deopt? at any rate, I'll be hooking up with a buddy who's got a garage full of tools (place looks like a pawn shop) so I'll see what we can come up with. just wish I had someone elses car to try it on first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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