Center consol enclosure

[Airborne]

I want to build a center console enclosure with a Sundown SA10 to go between the captain seats in my 2000 F350 Superduty. I did one in my old toyota with an E8 but it had to be sort of stretched into the back portion of the extended cab. It sounded pretty good but I am thinking of firing downward.

My question is, how far from the floor should I put the sub? Do I put the port on the baffle side with the sub or possibly fire it in a different direction? Any suggestions or experience would be greatly appreciated.

I already have the sub and a couple of amp choices as well as cable for the big 3 and any other real equipment I need to build it. I just want to make sure to get the best sound out of all that work.

[Airborne]

I'm thinking sub and port down for simplicity. My firs thought was two sa8v2 under the back seat but I keep picturing a pair of baseball cleats going through them...

[scooter99]

I'm actually working on a similar thing for my 06 F250. I've designed a couple of enclosures, but mine is going to be for mid bass really since I'm doing a blow-thru with 2 15's. But what I decided was that the port on the bottom or top, facing backwards, and then the sub facing backwards as well, is the best way to go about it. You can do a down facing, that would work too, but I wouldn't do port facing down. You have a ton of room between the seats and the dash. You should easily get an enclosure for a ported 10 in there.

As far as the rear seat goes, good luck with that. I hope you can pull it off. I was thinking the same thing, but the problem is the hump that goes from the floor up under the seat. It takes away a ton of room under there that would easily fit 8's. But it's also a ton of fabrication that I can see, to remove it and do an enclosure and still retain the seat, and be functional and safe. I have two daughters and my truck is our play truck, tows a travel trailer and use it for other stuff as well. SO it has to be 100% functional and safe. I did extensive searching, research, looking, designing, and came up with the thought that the hump could technically be eliminated all together, if you wanted to go to that extent. You'll gain about 4" up front, and it would almost not do anything in back. But you could eliminate it and make it flat with the floor. There would be nothing for it to hit that I could find. Why they did it in the first place, I have no idea. Thanks Ford! The thing with doing that however, is that you need to do something with the seat. New custom frame, some custom mounts, or something would have to be done. That would make it difficult, simply for the safety aspect of it. I'm still considering it, but I've just about given up on the concept at this point. I think it'll be too much work, plus I'm not a welder. I have a set up, but I haven't learned how to do it just yet.

If you come up with something and pull it off, I'd be very interested to see it. You could get the 8's behind the seat. You can move the seat up 2" by flipping the brackets I guess. I haven't tried it, but doing some google searching I found some stuff. I think with my designs, I came up with just under 4 cu ft with the seats where they are, and I think you gain almost another cube with them moved up. The problem I saw with that, is the rear doors aren't in the greatest position in relation to the seat in the first place. So moving the seat up 2" will take up a good amount of that room between the seat and the door. My issue personally is that I have dogs and they jump up there and have a tough enough time as it is. If I take up more of that room, they'll almost not be able to get in there. Plus on camping trips etc, they lay on the floor between the rear seat and the front seats. Again, not a ton of room as it is, and moving it forward 2" would certainly make that much more cramped.

The other thing I thought of, which was super off the charts crazy, was to make the entire rear seat an enclosure. I designed it for 4 10's but certainly 4 8's would work and almost be a little simpler. But again, I'm personally faced with safety first and functionality tied with that. With my lack of welding skills, I don't know that I trust it to be safe enough. I don't need to slam on my brakes, or get in an accident and have my daughters flying up in the front seat with me because I compromised safety in the name of bass.

Most of that is why I've currently settled on a blow-thru. I don't want to cut the cabin either, but unless I can find a way to make something work with the rear seat, I don't have much of a choice. Plus I already bought the 15's and I can't seem to sell them. Everyone wants something for nothing these days it seems.

Good luck, if you have any questions feel free to PM me and I can share with you what I've come up with in my research etc.

[jk13]

I am also in process of designing a center console sub box in my Tahoe. Three BNIB old school tens down firing with exterior ports running forward and then out along the bottom of the dash will be the first mock-up. If I can only fit two the last one might get lonely in the warehouse...but the numbers look okay so far.

And truly that's the only way to see if you'll like it--mock it up and listen to it. Even a pre-fab sitting on wood blocks with one seat removed should give you an idea of potential.

As for height from floor, it depends. If the woofer is near to one or both edges usually I try for half of the woofer diameter. Mine will be basket-down outside the box so that spacing is pretty much built in.

[Airborne]

I have room for more and I did throw a box together for some 8's a year or so ago. I'm sure I can make it fit to see it two 8's would also work.

To be honest I really just want to hook the new dually up with some bass and I have random equipment all over the place that can get it started.

It's supposed to 60+ this weekend so I hope to get started Saturday. If I do I'll start a really slow build log.lol