Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I think he has few issues going on here. How did he set the gains first off? What are the HU setting when he set them, everything 0 out i hope. Does the amp rms match the speakers. And the door need treated as i said early. Stock Malibu system had some good midbass but they didnt get loud and that was by design. Now the T3's sound fucking clean and low but it took the work to make it happen. Not the first system i installed and there was a huge difference after sound deadening and acoustic foam/matting in the doors. I would check all your wiring again. Set gains properly, and make sure all HU setting are flat. Then keep trouble shooting cautiously. I set gain with a dmm and everything was set at flat levels. Only problem is that I don't know what decibel the sine wave is played at.The amp is 90wrms x 4 and the speakers are 100wrms. This weekend I will replace all the speaker wire with shca 14 awg ofc, install my soundqubed pa's in the rear door, test phase on all speakers, and retune the amp. Hopefully by next month I will start sound deadening. 4 doors to deaden then, thats always fun....Yep, trying to deaden majority of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Has anyone tried soundqubeds qmat for trying to significantly deaden a car? It's a bit thicker then second skin or shca butyl deadener and definitely cheaper especially for how much I'm expecting to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Also I was going to order second skin butyl rope, but what is good use for the spectrum sludge that the butyl won't cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Did you ever set the amplifier to full instead of HPF? A friend of mine just bought the Qmat from SQ, he is pleased with the quality, but he did say the packing wasn't really the best. If you are going to get sound deadener for your car, you really can't get a better deal than this: http://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier-damplifier-pro-mix-b-stock-40-pounder/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Did you ever set the amplifier to full instead of HPF? A friend of mine just bought the Qmat from SQ, he is pleased with the quality, but he did say the packing wasn't really the best. If you are going to get sound deadener for your car, you really can't get a better deal than this: http://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier-damplifier-pro-mix-b-stock-40-pounder/ Not yet gonna go over everything tomorrow. I think either way I go will do what I need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I agree with rain about the Qmat. The quality is alright, but the way they pack it and ship it could be better. I haven't used other deadeners, but as far as being thicker than the other two brands you mentioned? I doubt it. But I could be wrong SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets. What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment? The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass. The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass. The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers. Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass. The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers. Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling. Well these speakers are rated for 10 more wrms then the amp can give and It sounded like the crossover was set to low as the crackling would go away when I crossed it over at a higher hz but same amount of power being given to the speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Also I should had add this earlier, the tweeters sound very harsh especially at higher volume is this simply just a need or adjusting my eq more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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