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There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Awesome. Thank you for your input.. So in other words Im going to hate the shit after I work my fat ass arms to death trying to apply it to my room lol. but will be happy with the results

You realize who Andrew2944r is right?

YES I DO... BUT BOTTOM LINE IS IM NOT MAKING MY DECISION OFF OF WHAT HE SAID, IM DOING IT OFF OF EVERYTHING I HAVE READ AND SEEN

2001 Ford Expedition

2 SA 12's

Crescendo 2000

M.E.C.A. 141.4 DB

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Awesome. Thank you for your input.. So in other words Im going to hate the shit after I work my fat ass arms to death trying to apply it to my room lol. but will be happy with the results

I sure hope you mean roof and not room. LOL

LOL YES I MEAN ROOF, SORRY AT WORK MULTI TASKING AND SOMETIME WHEN I DO THAT AND TYPE, MY SENTENCE HAS WORDS FROM MY CURRENT CONVERSATION IN IT...

2001 Ford Expedition

2 SA 12's

Crescendo 2000

M.E.C.A. 141.4 DB

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Get a roller or seven, and a heat gun. It takes some work but I think it'll be worth it.

THANKS MAN... I HOPE IT WILL BE WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR, BUT BASED ON THE VIDEO'S I HAVE SEEN, IT WILL BE... WHY 7 ROLLERS? DO THEY GET DIRTY?

2001 Ford Expedition

2 SA 12's

Crescendo 2000

M.E.C.A. 141.4 DB

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There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Thank you, I almost thought I was the only one thinking this barely has any dampening capabilities.

Hardened plastic=will not absorb vibrations=no dampening=no deadener...

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Thank you, I almost thought I was the only one thinking this barely has any dampening capabilities.

Hardened plastic=will not absorb vibrations=no dampening=no deadener...

It strengthens the structure to where it will not vibrate. Less dampening from my testing = more dBs due to not absorbing the subwoofers moving energy.

Team Ampere Audio

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There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Thank you, I almost thought I was the only one thinking this barely has any dampening capabilities.

Hardened plastic=will not absorb vibrations=no dampening=no deadener...

It strengthens the structure to where it will not vibrate. Less dampening from my testing = more dBs due to not absorbing the subwoofers moving energy.

SO WITH YOUR TESTING HAVE YOU FOUND OUT IS IT BETTER TO HEAT UP THE STICKY SIDE OR THE TOP SIDE? GOING TO BE USING A HEAT GUN

2001 Ford Expedition

2 SA 12's

Crescendo 2000

M.E.C.A. 141.4 DB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Thank you, I almost thought I was the only one thinking this barely has any dampening capabilities.

Hardened plastic=will not absorb vibrations=no dampening=no deadener...

It strengthens the structure to where it will not vibrate. Less dampening from my testing = more dBs due to not absorbing the subwoofers moving energy.

SO WITH YOUR TESTING HAVE YOU FOUND OUT IS IT BETTER TO HEAT UP THE STICKY SIDE OR THE TOP SIDE? GOING TO BE USING A HEAT GUN

Before applying you heat up the top side (non sticky side) which will make the vibraflex slightly softer and malleable, once it cools off it gets hard and rigid again.

 

 

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There is the Vibraflex 160 and 80 mil. Per mass loaded deadeners you will not find a product other than wood that will stop a panel from vibration/flex. You can look on the Ampere website to get the loss factor damping capabilities of the product. Does it take a heat gun? Yes. Is it a longer process to use Vibraflex? Yes. Will you get better results from a butyl deadener? No. The hotter you get Vibraflex the more stiff it becomes once it hardens due to the mass loaded plastic in the deadener.

Thank you, I almost thought I was the only one thinking this barely has any dampening capabilities.

Hardened plastic=will not absorb vibrations=no dampening=no deadener...

It strengthens the structure to where it will not vibrate. Less dampening from my testing = more dBs due to not absorbing the subwoofers moving energy.

SO WITH YOUR TESTING HAVE YOU FOUND OUT IS IT BETTER TO HEAT UP THE STICKY SIDE OR THE TOP SIDE? GOING TO BE USING A HEAT GUN

Before applying you heat up the top side (non sticky side) which will make the vibraflex slightly softer and malleable, once it cools off it gets hard and rigid again.

OK SO I JUST HEAT UP THE TOP THEN PEAL AND STICK?

IS THERE A PERFECT TEMP?

2001 Ford Expedition

2 SA 12's

Crescendo 2000

M.E.C.A. 141.4 DB

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