shogen Posted January 20, 2016 Report Posted January 20, 2016 How about installing an aftermarket unit that bypasses all the stock stuff. You can hide the Hu in the armrest or glove compartment wants his controls and Sync system, from one of his replies to an earlier post.... pretty sure ..lol at this point I'm just spewing out what I want to do with my system since I don't care for the in-built but I'm willing to deal w/ and just add sub Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true.
Doxmia Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Posted January 21, 2016 Yeah I'm one of those annoying people that wants to keep the stock head unit, controls, etc. What I have right now I'm sure a lot of people would consider "good enough", but just looking to achieve a bit more. Based on the research I've done, even though my Mosconi can take a digital input, the signal the HU sends to the amp is not a traditional digital signal. The amp takes the signal and then breaks it down into each channel based on the data it's receiving from the HU. The HU doesn't (as I understand it) have "front left, front right, rear left, rear right, center, sub" digital channels but rather just a single data stream that sends it to the amp digitally. The amp then takes care of the lifting and based on your HU settings, sends the signals accordingly to the speakers. I imagine if it was as easy as putting a harness between the amp and the headunit a company out there would have made one and been making a fortune by now since there are so many fords with these sony systems these days. Was hoping to maybe hear from someone who's specifically worked on one of these setups that maybe had better luck with another product or solution short of replacing/ditching the factory HU.
Skullz Posted January 21, 2016 Report Posted January 21, 2016 Try soundman and see if he has anything of interest for you. https://www.youtube.com/user/soundmancaraudio 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2
scooter99 Posted January 21, 2016 Report Posted January 21, 2016 Can you link us to the information you've seen saying that you cannot tap in before the sony amp? Not that I don't believe you, I'm just curious about information to try and help come up with a solution. There has to be one. I agree with Skullz too. Check with Soundman. He's got experience with the Sync system and tablets and processing. I think he did an iPad install while retaining the sync system as well as using the bitone. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Doxmia Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Posted January 21, 2016 Can you link us to the information you've seen saying that you cannot tap in before the sony amp? Not that I don't believe you, I'm just curious about information to try and help come up with a solution. There has to be one. I agree with Skullz too. Check with Soundman. He's got experience with the Sync system and tablets and processing. I think he did an iPad install while retaining the sync system as well as using the bitone. The information has just been from all over the place - the12volt, diymobileaudio, a variety of different ford forums. Basically every single thing I've come across to this point have all come to the same conclusions that you have to tap in post amp. I'd love to be wrong or find some other information at this point. Here's one of the more comprehensive links on the sony amp in a 2012: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/135919-2012-ford-f150-raptor-2.html
CleanSierra Posted January 21, 2016 Report Posted January 21, 2016 I think you'll need a truly awesome installer to get you your solution. A couple come to mind but I don't know where you're located. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
scooter99 Posted January 21, 2016 Report Posted January 21, 2016 So what I'm seeing based off of that thread you posted, this is what they did. Added the Clean Sweep SSI behind the Sony amplifier to show it a load. They had to unhook the sub channels because they clipped terribly. He put it to a 2 way system at that point. The LCQ1 is just line out converter and equilizer. In your case I'd think you could put the 6to8 there and go from there to the amplifiers, but worst case you'd have to add that in there as well. Just adjust it to a flat signal so you use the 6 to 8 to process the flat signal. As far as using stock volume, I'm assuming you want to utilize your steering wheel controls for volume, you may or may not be able to do that. If you set the volume to max unclipped volume for the stock unit, that should be where it stays. Get everything else set after that based on that max unclipped volume. I believe the Clean Sweep has a volume on it as well. Set that to the max unclipped volume. Then leave it there. I'd not even put the control out in the open, I'd put it away somewhere that it can't be bumped or moved, or mark where the max level is so you know if it has been. From there, set the LCQ-1 to max and you can find the 6to8's max volume and set the amps from there. You mentioned the redundancy of it, but it sounds to me like that's what's needed to make the loads. Once you have everything set., to test your volume controls for the stock head unit/steering wheel controls, just play something, and then use your main stock unit volume to turn it down and up etc. If nothing sounds off or distorted or acts funny, then I'd say leave the 6to8, LCQ1 and clean sweep volumes alone at max clean output and you can use the stock controls to adjust volume. Just remember what your max is on the stock volume. In my wife's 2015 explorer, we have lines, not number, but we also don't have the Sony system. So I don't know what yours looks like, but i'm thinking it's the same. We also have the 8" screen. That's what I saw from what you posted. I'm headed out from work. I'll check back in later. I think that should work from the brief information I've read. Good luck. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Doxmia Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Posted January 21, 2016 So what I'm seeing based off of that thread you posted, this is what they did. Added the Clean Sweep SSI behind the Sony amplifier to show it a load. They had to unhook the sub channels because they clipped terribly. He put it to a 2 way system at that point. The LCQ1 is just line out converter and equilizer. In your case I'd think you could put the 6to8 there and go from there to the amplifiers, but worst case you'd have to add that in there as well. Just adjust it to a flat signal so you use the 6 to 8 to process the flat signal. As far as using stock volume, I'm assuming you want to utilize your steering wheel controls for volume, you may or may not be able to do that. If you set the volume to max unclipped volume for the stock unit, that should be where it stays. Get everything else set after that based on that max unclipped volume. I believe the Clean Sweep has a volume on it as well. Set that to the max unclipped volume. Then leave it there. I'd not even put the control out in the open, I'd put it away somewhere that it can't be bumped or moved, or mark where the max level is so you know if it has been. From there, set the LCQ-1 to max and you can find the 6to8's max volume and set the amps from there. You mentioned the redundancy of it, but it sounds to me like that's what's needed to make the loads. Once you have everything set., to test your volume controls for the stock head unit/steering wheel controls, just play something, and then use your main stock unit volume to turn it down and up etc. If nothing sounds off or distorted or acts funny, then I'd say leave the 6to8, LCQ1 and clean sweep volumes alone at max clean output and you can use the stock controls to adjust volume. Just remember what your max is on the stock volume. In my wife's 2015 explorer, we have lines, not number, but we also don't have the Sony system. So I don't know what yours looks like, but i'm thinking it's the same. We also have the 8" screen. That's what I saw from what you posted. I'm headed out from work. I'll check back in later. I think that should work from the brief information I've read. Good luck. I'm not sure I follow exactly what you're saying. If I understand you're saying to do: HU -> Sony Amp -> CleanSweep -> Mosconi -> Amps? (Obviously a simplified version of what you're saying). Or are you saying HU -> CleanSweep -> Sony Amp (to show it a load) then CleanSweep -> Mosconi -> Amps? Mine also uses the bars like your wife's explorer.
Doxmia Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Posted January 21, 2016 I think you'll need a truly awesome installer to get you your solution. A couple come to mind but I don't know where you're located. Edmonton (Alberta, Canada).
CleanSierra Posted January 21, 2016 Report Posted January 21, 2016 Man, I don't know anybody up in Canada that can help You need a shop with experience in integration. These new systems are tricky. There are a good handful of guys installing out there that can literally take apart your factory setup and integrate/rewire it to function how you need. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
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