HELP QUICK PLZ JL JX1000/1D

[reedal]

That was with the amplifier gains all of the way down, correct? And amp filters set to full pass (hi-pass filters turned completely counter clockwise, low-pass filters turned completely clockwise)?

The way I do it is with a direct RCA connection from HU to the DD-1. So wth car off, unplug the RCAs from both amps. Using one RCA from the sub amp, plug into DD-1, play track 1 40hz -0dB. That gives you your max clean number for the low end since that RCA is from the sub/low preout on the head unit. Then test track 2 1khz -0dB using one RCA from the mids/high amp, since that RCA is connected to the mid/high preout on the head unit. That gives you your max volume on the high end. Whichever number is the lower of the two is your maximum clean volume. Then turn car off, plug RCAs back into amps, disconnect all speakers, and set gain using DD-1. I use the -5dB 1khz track for mids and highs and the -10dB 40hz track for subs. Connect DD-1 to amp, turn key to ACC (just to power on head unit, you don't need the engine running) and turn volume to your max clean, then adjust the gain on the amp as instructed. Rinse and repeat for the next amp using the proper track.

[Kyblack76]

Longest posts ever.

Lol good hell.

[reedal]

Longest posts ever.

Lol good hell.

[infamous23]

yes i had the gains all the way down on the amps. I also had the bass boast all the way down just like the book says. I everything right by the book. I have 3 sets of RCA's running to the HU. one for the sub on the phoenix amp and the dx400.4 has 2 amps built into one so that amp takes 2 sets of RCA's. The DD-1 book dont say anything about doing it through the RCA's that I could find? Doing it by the amps like the book says is the recommended way to do it should i not have gotten 2 different results? or does one amp distort before the other due to the quality or type of amp?

as for the crossovers i totally turned them off. the phoenix does not have a crossover only kicker dx has a crossover. and it has a switch to turn it completely off which i did so therefore i would assume the crossovers would be out of the equation i'd think. here are some pics of my amps settings and HU.

now on the pics you will see on the kicker amp the crossover freq set at 200.. thats not what i had it at i had them both all the way down to 50... but as i said the crossovers were disabled to off by the switch. i just moved them to 200 to see if i'd get a different distortion reading and i didnt. it stayed the same cuz xover set to off, i just wanted to be sure.

Oh and btw during this time i went out and changed the ground on the phoenix gold amp to a 4 gauge ground as well from the 8 gauge. and tested the voltage again and it now sits at 13.8v and when bass hits hard it drops to only 12.7v to 13.5. does not hit 11.8 anymore.. stays in high 12v and low 13v range.

[Efreakingt]

In the DD1 manual it has steps for testing the deck either directly off the deck or thru the amplifier (if your deck rca signal is too weak to detect on the DD1).

As far as settings on amps and stuff goes there's a lot of ways to do it depending on your choice of music and desired output levels you want. Following the directions will get you good results overall but you may find small tweaks you want later to get different output.

I'm pretty much doing a similar setup to yours right now, t400-2 on my mids and t1000 or 1500 on the sub. I'm going with a mechman alternator and XS 6500 battery for now. 1 run of 1/0 guage split into 4 guage for the amps. Mainly I looked at max and average amp draw of my amplifiers and picked a alternator that would handle nearly the max draw. If it's not enough then I will add a extra battery but I doubt I'll be going full tilt enough to cause major issues.

[reedal]

Maybe they've changed the manual then. Either way, go with whichever volume is the lowest as your maximum clean volume. As for why the results are different, yes, the quality of the amps are different, components used, etc.

[infamous23]

In the DD1 manual it has steps for testing the deck either directly off the deck or thru the amplifier (if your deck rca signal is too weak to detect on the DD1).

As far as settings on amps and stuff goes there's a lot of ways to do it depending on your choice of music and desired output levels you want. Following the directions will get you good results overall but you may find small tweaks you want later to get different output.

I'm pretty much doing a similar setup to yours right now, t400-2 on my mids and t1000 or 1500 on the sub. I'm going with a mechman alternator and XS 6500 battery for now. 1 run of 1/0 guage split into 4 guage for the amps. Mainly I looked at max and average amp draw of my amplifiers and picked a alternator that would handle nearly the max draw. If it's not enough then I will add a extra battery but I doubt I'll be going full tilt enough to cause major issues.

Maybe they've changed the manual then. Either way, go with whichever volume is the lowest as your maximum clean volume. As for why the results are different, yes, the quality of the amps are different, components used, etc.

Efreakingt- Okay I just saw that in the manual as well about the rca's but it still says recommended to go through amps. but yea i'll do the rca's too. Are you going to do the big 3 upgrade as well? or just upgrade battery and alternator with factory wires?

reedal- which of the 3 RCA outputs should i do it on? I think i'll do the RCA's too just to see what i get compared to the amps. once i get this done and am confident i'll move on to the amps. amps might be the hard part.

heres some pics i just took of the voltage to my amps. there is no audio playing. the deck is on but not playing music turned all the way down.

Now i know this all looks a little sloppy. I just got everything in and installed with extra length of all cables until i get everything dialed in properly. Then I'll go back through and shorten up my grounds and power wires and make everything nice and neat. Right now i'm just trying to work it all out... I may just reinstall everything 1/0 gauge if you guys think thats what I should do. I am not on a really tight budget. if there is something i need to buy i'll get it. i just want a nice sounding system with no distortion. even though ii'm getting good voltage at my amps now think i should upgrade to the 1/0 gauge still?

[reedal]

I vote for an upgrade to 1/0. Increased surface area for less resistance and voltage drop.

when you DD-1 your head unit, don't waste time checking for 1khz on the subwoofer RCAs because you won't be sending higher than maybe 250hz to the subs depending on where you cross over at. Same thing with the mids and highs RCAs. You're not going to play 40hz through them, so don't waste your time. Mids/highs = 1khz, subs = 40hz. Then take the lowest max clean volume level and use that to set your amplifier gains, and you're all good to go, just don't turn your head unit up past that point.

[Efreakingt]

Yeah I'm going full big three upgrade, 240 amp alt I believe. Still waiting on my sub to ship from FI before I start going forward. It's a fun process but my wallet is having a stroke right now. I'm getting the RF 1/0 2 amp kit with distribution blocks and all the necessities. I got a kick out of playing with the DD1 since every build I did before was by ear and on a prayer.

[infamous23]

this is the 1/0 kit im looking at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45060_NVX-XAPK1D.html . i'm thinking about buying individual though but individual i spend the same money but miss out on a couple of things in the kit. anyone know if its good or bad to use a distribution block for ground if you run 1/0 ground to distribution? then 4 gauge out to the amps? i'm thinking about just grounding them both independantly to amps.