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secondary battery, diode isolator, am I going to burn it down?


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Using an 8awg wire instead of 1/0 you will quickly find out that you won't be able to keep a fuse in it. The amp is going to try to take what ever it wants and you can't stop it. The only thing you can do is turn the volume down.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

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Using an 8awg wire instead of 1/0 you will quickly find out that you won't be able to keep a fuse in it. The amp is going to try to take what ever it wants and you can't stop it. The only thing you can do is turn the volume down.

And the bad thing about that is if all of it is running off of the secondary battery, he won't know that the fuse has popped until it drains the battery down below amplifier operating voltage.

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Using an 8awg wire instead of 1/0 you will quickly find out that you won't be able to keep a fuse in it. The amp is going to try to take what ever it wants and you can't stop it. The only thing you can do is turn the volume down.

And the bad thing about that is if all of it is running off of the secondary battery, he won't know that the fuse has popped until it drains the battery down below amplifier operating voltage.

= FRIED AMP INTERNALS ... I tried to explain the situation to him but seems he doesn't want to listen, or work way harder than smarter lol. Ive given my input, I am moving along now lol.

But What Do I Know?

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Maybe he has the right idea now. I know I have been out in left field with a new idea before and someone has always pulled be back in. Its hard being a Newby! lol

Maybe he will post pictures of his build.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Using an 8awg wire instead of 1/0 you will quickly find out that you won't be able to keep a fuse in it. The amp is going to try to take what ever it wants and you can't stop it. The only thing you can do is turn the volume down.

That's exactly what I thought too.

But this is the diagram: http://www.hellroaring.com/Basic%20Aux%20Audio.php

This is the instruction guide, but yeah, the wire in conjunction with the isolation device limits the throughput, without burning it off as heat.

I don't understand how this works. Think that it is able to do what it says without popping that fuse?

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Do you not get what we are telling you?

Here let me tell you again, it's a horrible fucking idea.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Well....... if the fuse doesn't pop then that means the amp won't get enough and it will fry when the battery voltage sags. You need more than 60a to do what you are doing. It has to come from somewhere. You would really be better off with a smaller amp. Or run what you have and turn it down a little when the needle on the volt meter starts bouncing or the lights start dimming. A battery with 60a charge isn't going to cut it. That's the point.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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so, you can run an isolator if you like, but your car isnt a boat. That is what isolators are for, like boats in the middle of a lake with a starting battery and a battery for accesories. You dont want a dead battery in the middle of a 500 acre lake.

So, go look through every build log here and any other car audio forum and i bet you wont see any isolators.

Te reason for that is they are a horrible idea.

But, go ahead and buy an isolator.

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Ok, so no isolator then!
I definitely understand that you don't want the voltage to drop as it will cause damage. But, audio can run off the batteries when the car is off, right? I'm imagining it like that, except that I'm "trickle" charging the battery while playing music with the 60A. It won't last forever, but it'd last longer than just a battery being drained quickly. Just monitor the voltage of the batteries and turn it down/off before the voltage levels get too low and cause damage.

Like a dam/river.

-a steady river (60A from alternator) flows into a lake (the secondary battery)

-the hydroelectric dam all of a sudden gets huge demands (the music is bumping) and opens up all the waterways

-when there isn't a huge load (music isn't loud), the dam closes (power isn't being supplied to amps) and the lake gets to refill just a bit (battery charges a little)

-regardless of how fast the lake is emptied, the river doesn't flow any faster (alt never has a load greater than 60A)

-after long enough period, the lake could run dry (dead battery), but by getting a big enough lake (large batteries) and monitoring the lake water levels (battery voltage), I could turn down the demand before it reached the point where damage can occur to any part of the system.

1995 Subaru Impreza Wagon

140A semi-HO alt upgrade

Sony GS810-BT

Hertz HDP.4 120w RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms

German Maestro 2-way AC6511 - front door

Kicker 2-way 6.5" - rear towers

Rockford Fosgate T1500-bdCP

2x 12" Alpine Type-R parallel @ 2 Ohms - sealed box

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