Is this voltage drop due to wire length?

[Jhunt94]

just throwing some thoughts out there. You said the front and back both drop at the same time, but the back seems to take longer to come back up. I'm going to assume that you have your fluke on the front battery and you are using your Stinger volt meter to watch the rear. Since digital volt meters like that are slower to react, is it possible that both are coming back up in voltage at the same time, but the Stinger is just not reacting as fast?

[RooTxBeeR]

just throwing some thoughts out there. You said the front and back both drop at the same time, but the back seems to take longer to come back up. I'm going to assume that you have your fluke on the front battery and you are using your Stinger volt meter to watch the rear. Since digital volt meters like that are slower to react, is it possible that both are coming back up in voltage at the same time, but the Stinger is just not reacting as fast?

The back doors not come back up at all, that's the problem I'm trying to figure out. The front will drop and immediately be back up, the back will drop and stay at 13v.

[Jhunt94]

one battery or two?

[RooTxBeeR]

one battery or two?

Just a front battery. I don't plan on putting more batteries in until I exceed what my alt can produce. Which currently I at the very most, with ac going and closing every window while full tilt, to hit 100a of draw.

[Jhunt94]

I say get two good meters that can do a min/max function, set them up, run full tilt or whatever, then compare the two numbers. If the one from the rear is bad off then you've got a problem somewhere, if there close, then I say screw it and leave it. As everyone has already said, if you've got like .1 difference front to back, don't worry. If you're losing .5v or more, then start checking connections, and testing the voltage drop on the wire.

[RooTxBeeR]

I say get two good meters that can do a min/max function, set them up, run full tilt or whatever, then compare the two numbers. If the one from the rear is bad off then you've got a problem somewhere, if there close, then I say screw it and leave it. As everyone has already said, if you've got like .1 difference front to back, don't worry. If you're losing .5v or more, then start checking connections, and testing the voltage drop on the wire.

If I honestly had a .5 difference max, I wouldn't care. It's just the fact that the current draw is so tiny compared to what can be produced. And there is a whole volt difference, that is what gets me. I will see if I can find someone with a meter like that. I am dead broke for a while, like, long while, months. So hopefully I can find someone with a better, newer meter to get some better testing done.

[GorillaFIngeRs]

If your readings are consistent you don't need to monitor them both simultaneously. Read at the battery with your one "good" meter and use the same one in the back? I would put the negative lead to your equal length negative and see what you get and then check it with your lead on a solid chassis ground in the back. If it voltage comes up just add a small negative bus in your trunk and you'll have both.

[RooTxBeeR]

If your readings are consistent you don't need to monitor them both simultaneously. Read at the battery with your one "good" meter and use the same one in the back? I would put the negative lead to your equal length negative and see what you get and then check it with your lead on a solid chassis ground in the back. If it voltage comes up just add a small negative bus in your trunk and you'll have both.

I had only monitored them both to check for issues. I only have a single one in my car that reads what the amps see.

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

Wait,

How are you measuring the voltage?

[RooTxBeeR]

Wait,

How are you measuring the voltage?

The rear amps I have a stinger volt meter wired too which I have checked to see it's still accurate as they can be. To do that measuring, and to compare the front to back, I use a old fluke DMM.