Twiztedlemon Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Hey figured I'd post a last ditch effort here. Running a 2016 Mazda CX 5 Touring 2.4L. Stock 100 amp alternator. I've emailed a few in regard to finding a H/O or getting a stock rewound..... (well alot to be honest, everyone I could find just about) Information Mazda Part number's PE0118300 PE0118-300 PE01-18-300 PEO1-18300 XIK3875 Lra03875 Lra3875 A5TL0491 A005TL0491 It's a Mitsubishi based alt. And only one Company has emailed me back... "Thanks for the pictures but we cannot provide you with a higher amperage version of that alternator. It is a Mitsubishi alternator and uses a new style stator that no one in the US has a machine to wind. Sorry" . From quality power. I have pics of every angle and wanted view. But so far... To no avail. I know 2012-2016 Mazdas have this. It will also fit Mazda 6's and some Mazda 3's depending on the engine I believe. Ive done my best to limit the core system draws (xenon hid kits, all interior lights led instead of normals) but only can do so much. Thank in advanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Go to a fab shop and ask em how much for a secondary alt bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted June 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Alright, what's the best bracket brace should I get.. As in am I able to get the secondary "braced" for one that's not so costly on mecha lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 I drive a CX-5 too. It's a 2.2 lietrs, 150 hp. Diesel engine. It has a stock 160 amp alternator. But it's regulated, haaaard ! I have 2 amplifiers (2500 w rms). An XS 3400 upfront and a group 31 Vision 105 in the rear. It's enough for me. I don't know if an HO alt would be a good thing for my car : the alt works only when the car needs it ! Then you're on batts power. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted June 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Aye, must be over the pond :/ I'd love my cx5 to be a tdi . But that said you got a beefier ALT verses mine. 60%more amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomZoom808 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Aye, must be over the pond :/ I'd love my cx5 to be a tdi . But that said you got a beefier ALT verses mine. 60%more amps. How much power do you plan on running? I have a 2010 Mazda3 2.5L with the 100 amp alt as well and I am running around 1.5K big 3 and 1/0 front to back ofc to very small AGM's in the trunk and I have hardly any voltage drop unless its a hard clip. I haven't even replaced the front battery yet and I hardly see high 12's if below 13 at all. I think the power steering and power windows cause the most voltage drop. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted June 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 With my 1000watt I had to put Xenon HID'S because the drops were that horrible. I'm looking in the range of 2k-3kwatts for sub(ideally looking to hit 2.5k range. Price will determine this. then probably about 700-900watts total for interior speakers. So max rms of ~3500watt. 3500watt / 13v = 269.23A That's assuming a lower voltage to compensate for efficiency losses, and real world conditions. My bat hovers around 13.5 when not booming, never really looked when it did since I knew I'd be very sad by the results.... Happily ignorant, but knew it was temp. By the way, anyone know a good fabricator? As mentioned I travel the entire Southeast region of the US, so anyone in the Southeast is prospective. Quality counts here, especially as my vehicle is used for Work and personal, don't want some slap shit job that the bracket will fall while I'm driving 10+ hours to Florida from South Carolina.. or to Washington DC, or to Indiana. Lol That's why I don't think batteries would be great, as a 10 hour drive, or 4 hour, or 6 hour... Would be too much draw and not enough umph back into the electrical system. My 2016 cx 5 is what 6 months old now... I'm alittle above 21k miles... And it only had 40 when I left the dealership. So I put down some miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomZoom808 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Have you looked to see if there is room for another alt? I know my car there isn't any. I think another user on here got an externally regulated alt for a 2010 mazda which gives you a check engine light. Might be cheaper to get a lithium batt and call it a day. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted June 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 There isn't a ton of room no, but I'm still hopeful that maybe a bracket system can be put in by some genius. I'll post a pic of when I did my big 3. It shows all the "glory" of this little 100amp ALT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted June 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 "Welp guys, I think I may have found out today why the high output alternators that I tried to have built did not work. I took my car in to the local mazda dealership for servicing and I was able to speak to the mechanic and service manager at length about the problem in having a higher output alternator and they told me that on top of the 2 part voltage regulator obstacle there is an obstacle that no one would have ever gotten past and it has to do with the ECU. Apparently the ECU is hard-coded with the amperage rating for an OEM alternator (75-80 amps whatever it is). This basically does not allow for anything higher than the stock alternator to be put on the car and in effect the ECU literally rejects the high output alternator giving a meager 12.1-12.2 volts on the DMM. I asked the mechanic if we could re-program the ECU to recognize a higher output alternator and he stated that "he had never done that before and that he wasn't going to be the first one to do so". Let me know if you have some suggestions or if this explanation was waaaaaaaayyyyyyy off?" This is from a different Mazda / Year set.... but im sure mazda did that BS on these models as well. humm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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