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Wall questions, building for the future.


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I have been thinking of building a new enclosure for a while now and recently decided that a wall build may just be the way to go. As it stands right now i only have 2 DC lv6m3 18", but i plan on doubling that in the future. I believe i have come up with an idea that will allow me to wall the 2 18s and then expand it when the time comes. Basically the idea is to make a 6 layer baffle, but only cut all 4 holes in the inner 4 layers, cutting only the top 2 holes in the last 2 layers. As the box is right now the max volume is 33.87ft^3. The rear baffle will be able to be moved forward and back to adjust the volume for 2 or 4 subs. Running what i have now i will make the box 16ft^3 before displacement and tune it to 28hz, and then when i get 2 more subs, adjust the rear baffle back to make it around 24ft^3 and rebuild the port to keep the same tuning. My main questions are has anyone done something like this before and if so how well did it work? and what is the best way to calculate port length with an odd shaped port like this? (this is the biggest port i can fit on the baffle) The port is 204in^2.

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i thought the level 6 was an spl sub. Am i wrong?

yes.

not even trolling lol

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

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2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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Yes it will work just fine like that, If you plan on moving the wall, don't do too much work to make it difficult to move later, do something that is structurally strong, but not permanent. I personally would do like angled steel and lag bots and not even glue it in.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Yes it will work just fine like that, If you plan on moving the wall, don't do too much work to make it difficult to move later, do something that is structurally strong, but not permanent. I personally would do like angled steel and lag bots and not even glue it in.

That's what i was thinking, just using angle and maybe some putty that stays soft just to plug any gaps

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Yes it will work just fine like that, If you plan on moving the wall, don't do too much work to make it difficult to move later, do something that is structurally strong, but not permanent. I personally would do like angled steel and lag bots and not even glue it in.

That's what i was thinking, just using angle and maybe some putty that stays soft just to plug any gaps

You could use silicone or something that you could later cut with a razor that will make it separate easier.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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