does ground and power wire BOTH have to be OFC 0 guage?

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

I would run a dedicated ground on a unit body car after 2 or 3 runs of 1/0 for + and full frame car after 4 or 5 runs of +.

[akuma4u]

I would run a dedicated ground on a unit body car after 2 or 3 runs of 1/0 for + and full frame car after 4 or 5 runs of +.

still confused... i guess ill just leave it without the "chassis ground" and just have them the way they are now which is each one having their own separate ground and not being connected together - to -

[Jessica]

uni-body cars are cheap thin steel. best ground would be to the sub frame, but any substantial hunk of steel sanded to bare metal should work

[Efreakingt]

Cars come in 2 forms. 1. Uni body which is a bunch of sheet metal welded together in a way to make a stiff body. 2. Full frame, a large frame rail runs from front to back on both sides.

Uni body has lots of resistance due to thin metal and lots of welds. Frames have lower resistance since it's on generally solid metal run front to back.

1/0 ofc copper can handle 300a across the run of a car. For every increment of 300a you should have at least 1 run. I would estimate your amps have a max draw of around 280 or more combined. You're likely right around the limits for a single 1/0 run. At this point you might consider beefing up your runs or you may get by without incident on your current setup. Having a little extra never hurt, having too little can be costly.

[akuma4u]

Cars come in 2 forms. 1. Uni body which is a bunch of sheet metal welded together in a way to make a stiff body. 2. Full frame, a large frame rail runs from front to back on both sides.

Uni body has lots of resistance due to thin metal and lots of welds. Frames have lower resistance since it's on generally solid metal run front to back.

1/0 ofc copper can handle 300a across the run of a car. For every increment of 300a you should have at least 1 run. I would estimate your amps have a max draw of around 280 or more combined. You're likely right around the limits for a single 1/0 run. At this point you might consider beefing up your runs or you may get by without incident on your current setup. Having a little extra never hurt, having too little can be costly.

when you say run, you mean from one batt to the rear batt.. then from batt to amp obv i just use one 0g wire..

since im only running 1300 rms @ 2 ohms , i think the one run i have is sufficient. Maybe when i use the full 2200rms at 1 ohm i may add another run of 0g between the two batteries.

i guess both 0g runs of wires should be the same brand? and each run requires its own fuse ?

sounds like my car is a unibody - hyundai genesis coupe.

[Efreakingt]

Well if you're running higher ohm then you're not pulling the max possible. Any run from a power source should be fused near the source so the fuse will go before a long length of wire heats up and catches fire. As far as multiple batteries, I believe the positive run should be fused on both ends between the batteries and then again between the battery and amp.

[akuma4u]

a side question:

my wiring for front and rear batt and fuses and all that happened over the course of 2 years if you can believe that. I first had 4g then swapped out for 0g, etc

now here is the problem, there are a few different brand 0g OFC and a little regular brand 0g wire that are being used for my dual battery and amps set up..

i know its best to use one brand and keep it simple and stable but in my case since everything was done over the course of an extended period of time, i was unable to do this and had to mix and match. Is this OK or should i be scrapping all wire and just redoing everything with the SAME OFC 0g brand?

perfect example: my + to + run is OFC 0g wirez brand and my - to - ground is OFC 0g nvx brand and my rear batt to amp is OFC 0g kicker...

is this OK?