JerryLZ Posted June 24, 2016 Report Posted June 24, 2016 So this is what my battery terminal looks like that I just purchased and installed. I have more stuff to hook up like HID's and my amp(need more room). I feel like this isn't a good idea but I wanted to check here first - Could I use a zinc screw with matching threads in place of where my 4 gauge is ran (blue wire) and use that to simulate a screw terminal? If not, what are my other options? Besides what you see in the picture, I have another 0 gauge ring terminal that needs power, 3 smaller ring terminals which are like 8 gauge.
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted June 24, 2016 Report Posted June 24, 2016 It really looks like you need a different kind of terminal to do what you need. Maybe add a distribution block? I hope all those cables are fused. I suppose you could remove the blue wire and get a bolt that fits the Allen screw hole. Maybe cut the head off a bolt and screw it in there as a stud with a washer and nut on top? Just make sure the hood doesn't hit it when it closes. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)
Wasteland_Audio Posted June 24, 2016 Report Posted June 24, 2016 Get a toolmaker distribution block and save yourself a lot of headache.
islandpride684 Posted June 25, 2016 Report Posted June 25, 2016 https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/sky-high-car-audio-4-20-sae-aluminum-battery-terminal Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.