Jump to content

Cheap ebay 1/0 gauge ring terminal.


Recommended Posts

I don't think any of them are the "solder" type. I always crimp mine. The few that I have soldered were the closed end type. I put it in a vice and heated with a torch. Filled 3/4 with solder that melted. Stuffed wire in and hold still until set. If you solder like this and the terminal body is slightly oversized it won't be an issue. If you crimp, the body has to be the correct size.

Edit: That crimper they have is junk. I use a hex die hydraulic. If I had to choose between their crimper or solder, I would solder. Tinned lugs are the way to go. You should be good with these if your wire is not too big.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think any of them are the "solder" type. I always crimp mine. The few that I have soldered were the closed end type. I put it in a vice and heated with a torch. Filled 3/4 with solder that melted. Stuffed wire in and hold still until set. If you solder like this and the terminal body is slightly oversized it won't be an issue. If you crimp, the body has to be the correct size.

Edit: That crimper they have is junk. I use a hex die hydraulic. If I had to choose between their crimper or solder, I would solder. Tinned lugs are the way to go. You should be good with these if your wire is not too big.

I have soldered closed ended terminals, it takes time for big wires and is not easy. I would use a big mounted vice, put the terminal in. Heat it up with a torch and fill the terminal with solder. Then place the wire into the terminal and then start to heat the terminal again but very slowly this time. I would do that for about 5 min to make sure the wire itself got heated and absorbed the solder. I only did it because I had no crimper available.

To the OP, Depending on the wire you have. If it is shca, or any other brand that is oversized for the use of car audio. I would get their terminals, they are made to fit their wires. If it is just some normal rated wire, any legit terminal will do.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think any of them are the "solder" type. I always crimp mine. The few that I have soldered were the closed end type. I put it in a vice and heated with a torch. Filled 3/4 with solder that melted. Stuffed wire in and hold still until set. If you solder like this and the terminal body is slightly oversized it won't be an issue. If you crimp, the body has to be the correct size.

Edit: That crimper they have is junk. I use a hex die hydraulic. If I had to choose between their crimper or solder, I would solder. Tinned lugs are the way to go. You should be good with these if your wire is not too big.

Chears mate. I spend my money already for torch ad solder and dont want spend extra for ''hydraulic'', They arent cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think any of them are the "solder" type. I always crimp mine. The few that I have soldered were the closed end type. I put it in a vice and heated with a torch. Filled 3/4 with solder that melted. Stuffed wire in and hold still until set. If you solder like this and the terminal body is slightly oversized it won't be an issue. If you crimp, the body has to be the correct size.

Edit: That crimper they have is junk. I use a hex die hydraulic. If I had to choose between their crimper or solder, I would solder. Tinned lugs are the way to go. You should be good with these if your wire is not too big.

I have soldered closed ended terminals, it takes time for big wires and is not easy. I would use a big mounted vice, put the terminal in. Heat it up with a torch and fill the terminal with solder. Then place the wire into the terminal and then start to heat the terminal again but very slowly this time. I would do that for about 5 min to make sure the wire itself got heated and absorbed the solder. I only did it because I had no crimper available.

To the OP, Depending on the wire you have. If it is shca, or any other brand that is oversized for the use of car audio. I would get their terminals, they are made to fit their wires. If it is just some normal rated wire, any legit terminal will do.

You are right, with crimper its easy and fast. But i dont have. And next step is wire, i didnt bought wire already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right lads. Ring terminals i found, next step is power wire, any suggestion? Looking for a 0 or 1/0 gauge wire. And it is enought 50 ft for running one run to back and big ''4'' ?

A lot will suggest SHCA, there is also knukoncpets, stinger, rf, jl and a few I cannot think of this early after a day of drinking. I cannot comment on that 50ft. What I would suggest however which is something I did that helped a lot. I had spare 8awg wire laying around, you can do it with what ever size wire to be honest. But what I did is I took a 10ft long length of wire. At every foot on it, I put a zip tie tight to it, then had a friend dangle the wire from the top of engine bay. While I laid under the car and moved the wire into position for where I would run it. Then see how many ft that single run would take. Then did that for each wire I would run for the big4. Totaled it up and added 1-2ft onto each length for safety. As far as a run to the back, I think 15ft is a bare minimum, some care can run that short. Others cannot. I bought a 25ft length and only used 18ft for my 2004 ford escape. Hope that helps.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look for a tinned copper wire. Sky High is not tinned and has a tendency to corrode under hood of cars in certain climates. Ohio weather not a fan of untinned wire. Look at Knukonceptz it is tinned.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look for a tinned copper wire. Sky High is not tinned and has a tendency to corrode under hood of cars in certain climates. Ohio weather not a fan of untinned wire. Look at Knukonceptz it is tinned.

Fair enoght will take a look. I like knukceptz stuff its top quality,i like but shipping is to expensive, i need pay 70$ just for a shipping no way. And this is low budget build anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...