CodyLucente Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 So i started a new build in my truck. However being a newer truck i want to keep the stock head unit because it has integrated satellite radio. So i have my subs hooked up with no noticeable base increase but i can see the subs moving. I had to wire my subs in a weird way and wondering where the problem lies. So (1) im using an old school amp that has low level input only so i am using a (2) scoshe high/low converter from walmart on my (3) stock head unit. (4) with my prefab box that i had to add a riser because they were not deep enough Currently i only have one sub hooked up to this amp and (yes there is a divider in the box creating a separate chamber for each sub so there not out of phase) so 300w rms on a single 12" sub should still be enough to be heard. My ideas in order from try first to last 1) to seal my sub box with resin. (its sealed not ported) 2) Buy an amp with a high level input such as a used alpine m500 or kicker dx1000 to bypass the high/low converter 3) Buy a signal processor or base booster with high level input instead with a powerful low level input amp such as Orion 2400 1D2 4)Replace Head Unit My setup has been gained properly using a DD-1 and tested with just a tone generator / base heavy songs and still cant tell its there. I dont want to spend more money than i have to, this is supposed to be a budget everyday build and i really don't want to loose my sat radio, its the only music out here. Am i on the right track? are than any other cheaper options i can look into? 2 Orion xtr 12" single 4Ohm Alpine v12 m500 old school amp (300w rms @ 4ohms) 2 AcDelco deep cycle marine batterys 2 runs 4Ga CTSounds cca wire Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wehan Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Specifically what vehicle and what if any factory infotainment/stereo optioned upgrades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Try switching the inputs on one side of the converter. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 2011 chevy silverado LTZ. It's the standard head unit not the touch screen however it has: sat radio, usb, aux, and bose 7 speaker stereo with amp. All other controls are done on a screen on my Speedometer not on the radio, and has separate controlls Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoeboi954 Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 First you do know that they make aftermarket head unit with satellite radio. how hard is the sub moving, is it barely moving or pushing hard. Are there any nobs you can try turning up on the high to low lineout converter. When you where setting the gain with the dd1 did you set it up on both the lineout conveter and amplifier.i personally hate using the high/low converter i would use a signal processor over those anyday if i had to keep the factory headunit. What speaker do you have the lineout conveter hooked up to, make sure that the fader on the headunit is equal to all speaker. When you say sealed the box what do you mean? Is it a ported or sealed box? And ps just letting you know its bass with 2 s no e 4 Fi Q 12s In A Prius on 4 Crescendo BC2000D?! That's Absurd (!!!UNDER CONSTRUCTION!!!) go follow http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190658-the-first-prius-with-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Try switching the inputs on one side of the converter. dont understand what you mean? my converter has 4 inputs and 4 outputs. i have it wired from my rear right speaker to the input 1 then chained to input 2. input 3 and 4 are empty Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wehan Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Are the line out converters hooked to the full range speakers? I'm thinking this truck has a factory sub and a built in crossover so you might not even be getting bass frequencies depending on where you installed the line out converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 First you do know that they make aftermarket head unit with satellite radio. how hard is the sub moving, is it barely moving or pushing hard. Are there any nobs you can try turning up on the high to low lineout converter. When you where setting the gain with the dd1 did you set it up on both the lineout conveter and amplifier.i personally hate using the high/low converter i would use a signal processor over those anyday if i had to keep the factory headunit. What speaker do you have the lineout conveter hooked up to, make sure that the fader on the headunit is equal to all speaker. When you say sealed the box what do you mean? Is it a ported or sealed box? And ps just letting you know its bass with 2 s no e 1)No i didnt know they made that 2)Subs moving not as much as it should but enough to be heard 3) i have tried tweaking all the knobs 4) i used the dd-1 on the factory amp then the alpine amp not the converter 5)rear right speaker 6) fader is all eaqual 7) box is sealed but i mean to use epoxy resin on the mdf 8( the converter was 5$ and the bass processor is allot more thats why i tried this first Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Are the line out converters hooked to the full range speakers? I'm thinking this truck has a factory sub and a built in crossover so you might not even be getting bass frequencies depending on where you installed the line out converter. Yes its hooked up to full range speakers, truck has no factory sub. It has Center, 3 left & 3 right Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wehan Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 The bose 7 speaker has a subwoofer built into the center console. Tap in at the factory subwoofer and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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