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About Wehan

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  • Birthday 03/23/1986

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    Lansing Mi

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  1. That shake your trim off and put out 15Hz on 1krms.
  2. I was really hoping you would chime in, with any luck I can get enough out of selling the SSD'S to pay for an 18 and Marty building materials, I am after the super lows Marty's are known for. I definitely have room for a full Marty and I might even get the wife to go along if it doesn't cost anything.
  3. I already have a pair of FI SSD 12's, they are fully loaded high QTS (it's still a low enough QTS for a ported enclosure to be just fine) and I have a Behringer iNuke NU3000dsp. I have the subs currently in sealed 1cuft enclosures but the output is not very good. My question: Can the pair of 12's be a viable large single ported box canadates or am I better off going to say the Dayton Ultimax 18 and a Marty sub enclosure variant like a large number of DIY builders seem to doing?
  4. This was what I was thinking but everyone seems so scared of a clipped track like its the end of the world I just figured I'd ask.
  5. OK, bear with me here and sorry for the NOOB question but how does a recording of a clip hurt your equipment? Even if played at low levels is it harmful?
  6. http://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/subwoofers/hd690cf.php See bottom for "download tech specs" link, actually a pretty informative tech sheet.
  7. What alternator? at idle your 350a might only be putting out like 150a. A second battery certainly isn't going to hurt but it will only buy you a little more time before you drain both of them and then you are back to an amp in protect (or worse, a blown amp). Try reeving up your engine to say 2000-2500 rpm and holding it there while going full tilt and see how your voltage holds up.
  8. Listen to Triticum Agricolam, he has build more boxes and speakers than you could imagine = he knows his shit.
  9. Post up the exact head unit you have not just a guess of "um...Its an alpine?...from WalMart...um yeah that's what it is." We really can't offer the best help we can if we don't have all the variables.
  10. Company I work for operates on another company's property due to contracts for this that and the other in automotive shipping...anyways my company has been in the red for 6 years and the property owner company just placed their own ass kicker uber manager in place in my company and he did exactly this, gutted the useless middle management, made top management carry the weight and cut 1/2 of supervisor level positions to. My company immediately went into black and has steadily increased profit since not to mention it is a much better place to work at without 50 dildo jockey manager/supervisors all telling you how to do a job they have never done.
  11. My goals for this car are A: an upgrade in sound level and quality. B: a final cost of no more than $400 excluding the inevitable head unit upgrade . and C. Super easy and as un-invasive and quick as possible install. (got tired if driving a car to work that was completely gutted except for the drivers seat I slapped in the night before after several hours of whatever the hell I was trying to do) basically my last big build burnt me out for a while Already decided on the NVX MVPA4 for its size, power and price point (and reputation) so $120 is allocated to that and the rest is for speakers/install. The factory speakers are rated at like 15-20rms and the kickers are 50wrms, perfect for the NVX amp and my goals, plus they get great reviews, albeit by tree hugging Subaru hipsters but whatever, we all agree stock is just barely MEH.
  12. Honestly after I get the 4 6.5"s, tweeters, a sheet of ABS to make adapters from, factory to spade clip adapters, foam rings and door backing I'm within $20 of the kickers just with a bunch more work involved... Kickers it is. I'm getting better at this whole build a better mousetrap type of thinking as I get older.
  13. Be careful with that nasty little word "unnecessary" around here, this entire forum is derived from the unnecessary.
  14. Because 1: I'm not that dedicated to this install and 2: it's how the factory upgraded kicker speakers are configured but they cost $250 and the Polk setup is only $160. My next step is to see if the factory upgrades are standard 4 ohm each or if the front coax and tweets are made to have a final load of 4ohm together. If that's the case I might just drop the coin on them and be done with it.
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