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Question about a circuit


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I'll take a look at it and keep it in mind should I need it but really would prefer to just use the USB as a power source if possible. I appreciate the suggestion though.

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I don't have a good way to show you a diagram. Basically you would need a 10k or 50k ohm doesn't matter much. Whatever radio shack has. The pot will have 3 terminals. The two outer terminals and the middle one that is connected to the wiper that moves inside when you turn the knob. The positive supply would be on one outer terminal, the negative supply on the other outside terminal. With power applied, measure voltage on the center terminal with the negative probe on the supply negative. Adjust pot to desired voltage. connect the led to center and negative and adjust the voltage again.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I don't have a good way to show you a diagram. Basically you would need a 10k or 50k ohm doesn't matter much. Whatever radio shack has. The pot will have 3 terminals. The two outer terminals and the middle one that is connected to the wiper that moves inside when you turn the knob. The positive supply would be on one outer terminal, the negative supply on the other outside terminal. With power applied, measure voltage on the center terminal with the negative probe on the supply negative. Adjust pot to desired voltage. connect the led to center and negative and adjust the voltage again.

Would something like this work for what I need? Or would you suggest something else?

https://www.amazon.com/potentiometer-potential-black-control-Knob/dp/B009QFU9H4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1475770642&sr=1-3&keywords=10k+ohm+potentiometer

These are the LED's I was looking at. Would you suggest a different brand or another type of Infrared LED? As far as I know they don't need to be anything specific as long as it's a LED that puts out IR light that is safe to look at (nothing too powerful).

https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-10pcs-Infrared-Emitter-Emitting/dp/B01BVGIZIA/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1475770904&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=IR%2BLED&smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F&th=1

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Another thing to consider is that I'm wanting to get a blank circuit board of some kind to mount all of my parts to (besides the circuitry that is in the camera itself and the LED) and to mount to the box itself. Is there a specific blank you would suggest? At some point I will post a picture of the idea i'm having for wiring. One of my goals is to make this as user friendly as possible so that if the camera were to go out or the LED were to go out it is easily replaced using connectors if possible.

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The pot and led you chose should work. Are you using the led to be able to use the camera in the dark? I have security cameras that have almost 20 less in a ring around the lens. One led might not be enough. You will have to try it and see what works.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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The pot and led you chose should work. Are you using the led to be able to use the camera in the dark? I have security cameras that have almost 20 less in a ring around the lens. One led might not be enough. You will have to try it and see what works.

No, it's for a school project on eye tracking. The LED is used to cause a reflection on the eye (pupil and corneal reflections) so that the position of the eye can be accurately recorded. I have to remove the IR filter off of the camera lens then add a visible light filter so I can get a clean and accurate signal. One should hopefully work fine.

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That's awesome! Make sure to post pictures or even a video!

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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