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Sky high for starter/fuse box


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Hey guys. Just got the itch to start changing stuff up and tinkering as I've got some frayed wires going to my starter and fuse box coming off my positive battery terminal. To me copper is copper but I wanted to make sure but I thought I would ask anyways. Is it okay/safe to run car audio wire (sky high) to the starter and fuse box rather than the stock wiring that's getting frayed and nasty looking?

Another questions that may be silly, but again I thought I would ask, would you need a fuse to the starter or to the fuse box. I do not see any fuse as of now but hey, better safe than sorry.

This is in a 98 blazer. Everything is pretty simple and easy to change out.

Thanks,

Greg

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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As long as the current carrying capabilities of the wire you use meet or exceed that of the stock wiring, then swapping it should make no difference whether it's "car audio" wire or welding wire or replacement OEM wiring from the auto parts stores.

The only thing that would hurt from fusing those runs is having a loose connection at the fuse holders. So, as you said, better safe than sorry :good: (I would)

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A lot of times the manufacturer will put a fusible link in line with the fuse box and accessory wires where they connect to the main power distribution. A fusible link looks like a piece of wire so it might not be easy to spot. You will need to keep the fusible links in the circuit.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Well I thought I was good to go but now I'm not sure about the fusible link thing. How would you ever tell where it is if it looks like the wire?

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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The repair manual for your vehicle would show you. You might be able to google it.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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If there is no fuse in the oem cable you shouldnt need one in the replacement. I have replaced my main fuse block lines in both my cars with knukonceptz 4 gauge ofc and have had no issues. Just make sure you have a good solid crimp on your connectors and you use adhesive lined heat shrink. Also be carefull in changing them so you dont break anything.

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